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(YouTube)   So, subby bought a mouse sander as seen on YouTube videos to strip the seasoning off his Lodge cast iron pan - after further searching, I found a video showing someone doing the same thing with Easy Off oven cleaner. Anyone tried this?   (youtube.com) divider line
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535 clicks; posted to Food » on 24 Jan 2021 at 2:14 PM (14 weeks ago)   |   Favorite    |   share:  Share on Twitter share via Email Share on Facebook



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2021-01-24 3:11:51 PM  

revrendjim: The real enemy is mechanical abrasion. Soap or no soap, scrubbing too hard will wear through the polymer.


Also, this. I can't understand why people say that using course salt to scrub a pan is fine, but mild soap isn't.
 
2021-01-24 3:11:55 PM  

Xcott: Marcus Aurelius: 1. Turn gas grill onto HIGH.
2. Throw in the cast iron.
3. Drink 2 beers.

2.  JUST COOK YOUR GODDAMN FOOD ON THE GODDAMN GRILL
4. Turn off gas grill.

My method is clearly superior.

FTFY.  How do you get a great crust on a steak?  Option 1:  get a really hot fire going and put a crust on the steak.  Option 2:  "Oh you need cast iron from the 40s you need to go to swap meets like this amazing one I found by the river and oh it has to be mirror smooth here's how I prepare it and then continually maintain it I do what this guy does in the YouTube video but his temperatures are all wrong and my method only takes three days...."


although... I am very curious to know your secret step 3!

does it involve profit? or extra-sooper-sekrit garage-beers? or owls? please say it involves owls!!! and why do you hate charcoal so very, very much?

I do also admit to curiosity about people who sous-vide their ribeye/whatever and only then sear it afterward. never had that method.

or I guess you can just leave the sear off, so that it goes... *PLORP*
(Narrator: don't forget *GLIGGLE* too!)

Fark user imageView Full Size


/ha ha ha, creation-myth
 
2021-01-24 3:15:19 PM  
UPDATE: holy crow, that was easy...10 min with the sander, brought the pebbly surface down to smooth as silk. 5 min with the 80 grit, 5 min with the 180. Time to reseason!

Clarification - it wasn't the Lodge preseasoning I was objecting to, it was the casting method of leaving a rough surface, which makes food stick. Maybe now I can chuck my teflon pans I keep buying over and over.
 
2021-01-24 3:16:36 PM  

tintar: khitsicker: wire wheel on your angle grinder works just as well.

Psychopompous: [Fark user image 850x850]
A cup wire brush like this one will cost you 5$ and will remove rust and seasoning from cast iron w/o removing any metal. It won't smooth out surfaces like sandpaper, but will last indefinitely. Chuck one into an angle grinder or high speed drill. If you are going to get into collecting rusty flea market cast iron, beg, borrow or steal a drill press to chuck it into, so you can hold the rusty pan with both hands.

just... (I know, I know, it's softer therefore less-effective) ...but still, consider the brass brushes not iron or steel.

little tiny shards of that shiat will break off, and if a microscopic piece gets embedded in whatever you're workin' on (pan, car, bicycle, ...) - it WILL later interact with the metal to rust up a farking storm.

/also with brass there's less chance you will fark the thing up, lol
//or yourself either, lol
///also? safety-glasses, kids, safety glasses. This Is The Way.


Here's our family's horror story:
My grandmother passed down all her cast iron to my mom, who took great care of it and taught us how to as well. My sister and I were supposed to get it all when she died.

Mom got when she was 85, almost died, was in the hospital for weeks and weeks.

Dad thought she was never coming home, so he gave all 8 cast iron skillets and cornbread pans to somebody. Never found out who, probably took them to Goodwill.

We never forgave him for it. What a dick.
 
2021-01-24 3:19:56 PM  

millia: revrendjim: The real enemy is mechanical abrasion. Soap or no soap, scrubbing too hard will wear through the polymer.

Also, this. I can't understand why people say that using course salt to scrub a pan is fine, but mild soap isn't.


I think several people in this thread were talkin' 'bout seriously wanting to get back to bare metal?

but aside from that, I mean, it took me decades to get over the anti-soap thing. and yet I still only use kosher salt. used to totally freak me out if I even suspected soap on the kitchen sink brushes/sponges/scrubbies. these days? barely makes one eye even half-twitch, lol.

and part of that salt-thing is still... I can leave the jorb half-assed-unfinished, bung the thing into the oven, set the dial to "STUPID" and then when it comes out, the salt will still be there for moar scrubbing.
 
2021-01-24 3:26:27 PM  

tintar: khitsicker: wire wheel on your angle grinder works just as well.

Psychopompous: [Fark user image 850x850]
A cup wire brush like this one will cost you 5$ and will remove rust and seasoning from cast iron w/o removing any metal. It won't smooth out surfaces like sandpaper, but will last indefinitely. Chuck one into an angle grinder or high speed drill. If you are going to get into collecting rusty flea market cast iron, beg, borrow or steal a drill press to chuck it into, so you can hold the rusty pan with both hands.

just... (I know, I know, it's softer therefore less-effective) ...but still, consider the brass brushes not iron or steel.

little tiny shards of that shiat will break off, and if a microscopic piece gets embedded in whatever you're workin' on (pan, car, bicycle, ...) - it WILL later interact with the metal to rust up a farking storm.

/also with brass there's less chance you will fark the thing up, lol
//or yourself either, lol
///also? safety-glasses, kids, safety glasses. This Is The Way.


No, I'm sorry, but I tried a brass brush on cast iron and it leaves a brassy film on the metal. Brass cookware has to be sealed in tin before cooking in it, so it follows that smearing brass on a cooking surface is bad. Just clean thoroughly before seasoning. The steel wire is softer than cast iron, so you really can't screw up the surface of the cast iron. It leaves a lovely burnished finish, while preserving the texture from the sand casting.  Definitely follow shop safety protocols. Goggles, dust mask, gloves, and a shirt you don't mind getting filthy with rust dust. I buy cast iron pans and decorative cast iron at flea markets and estate sales and fix them up on a regular basis.
 
2021-01-24 3:29:02 PM  

darkhorse23: Here's our family's horror story:
My grandmother passed down all her cast iron to my mom, who took great care of it and taught us how to as well. My sister and I were supposed to get it all when she died.

Mom got when she was 85, almost died, was in the hospital for weeks and weeks.

Dad thought she was never coming home, so he gave all 8 cast iron skillets and cornbread pans to somebody. Never found out who, probably took them to Goodwill.

We never forgave him for it. What a dick.


that's... that is... wow. wow. if there were truly-unforgivable sins in this world, that is literally one of them.

I can't remember what mine own grandparents used (which is odd since I was a celebrated and precocious little pretty-principesa of la-cuisine since the ripe old age of 3, I 100% would have noticed!) - the one grandmother subsisted entirely upon cigarettes, so that's no help. t'other grandmother, hmm... I don't recall her doing much cooking other than lime-jello rings packed with shredded carrots. and that grandfather, well, his only cooking-implement was a small brick cottage sealed up so that the entire building was its own smokehouse, lololol.

I've recently started talking to my dad again, so I may need to ask him if there's any pan-legacy happening, though. can't hurt, right?
 
2021-01-24 3:30:40 PM  

ShavedOrangutan: rukie: Well to remove seasoning, just out it in the oven in the self cleaning mode. It'll cook off.

If you want an incredible pan though, sand through the grits to a mirror finish. Then season.

In the old days cast pans didn't come with a very smooth finish, so they'd surface them smooth.

Today, casting a lot better and they don't bother post finishing. So a pan from 1880 might be smoother than a new pan today.

I also like to use beef suet for seasoning.

Agreed with the above.  The sanding isn't to remove the seasoning, it's to do a proper finishing of the cast iron itself.  Get it to a mirror finish with the sander and reseason and it'll be as good or better than a teflon pan.

Think of it like resurfacing a brake disk.  You can scrub it with cleaner all you want, but unless you grind it down to a better finish, it's not going to be where you want it.


...and then you have to bed-in the rotors again by getting the brakes up into the temperature zone where pad material deposition occurs, in a controlled manner.

Kind of like seasoning a pan.

/woah
 
2021-01-24 3:37:15 PM  

Psychopompous: No, I'm sorry, but I tried a brass brush on cast iron and it leaves a brassy film on the metal. Brass cookware has to be sealed in tin before cooking in it, so it follows that smearing brass on a cooking surface is bad. Just clean thoroughly before seasoning. The steel wire is softer than cast iron, so you really can't screw up the surface of the cast iron. It leaves a lovely burnished finish, while preserving the texture from the sand casting.  Definitely follow shop safety protocols. Goggles, dust mask, gloves, and a shirt you don't mind getting filthy with rust dust. I buy cast iron pans and decorative cast iron at flea markets and estate sales and fix them up on a regular basis.


ah, tyty.
my apologies for misinformation, then!

I both bow and hat-tip to your superior experience! (I know, we're still stuck in a bizarre timeline where #poeslaw is meaningless, but I do actually sincerely mean all of the above.)

also, lol, yes a thousand times yes - "do you have a shirt you hate? good!!! wear that."

here... here is a very, very normal and safe and not at all filthy thing we all do in our kitchens, right? right...?!

Fark user imageView Full Size
 
2021-01-24 3:45:11 PM  
I just use the sandblaster at work, then re-season with lard.
 
2021-01-24 3:49:42 PM  

rosekolodny: Mambo Bananapatch: grokca: I never sand mice, it pisses them off.

Try the oven cleaner. Also pissed off mice are not really a problem.

You sound like someone who's never been bit by a mouse.  They give it their all.


The oven cleaner would calm the mouse down.
 
2021-01-24 3:56:01 PM  

gopher321: UPDATE: holy crow, that was easy...10 min with the sander, brought the pebbly surface down to smooth as silk. 5 min with the 80 grit, 5 min with the 180. Time to reseason!

Clarification - it wasn't the Lodge preseasoning I was objecting to, it was the casting method of leaving a rough surface, which makes food stick. Maybe now I can chuck my teflon pans I keep buying over and over.


Stopping at 180 grit, what kind of crazy talk is that?  Time to up your game, at least take it up to 8000 grit.

https://taytools.com/collections/supp​l​ies-abrasives-3m-lapping-microfinishin​g-film-polishing-paper/products/3m-281​q-wetordry-6-piece-set
 
2021-01-24 3:59:37 PM  

Mambo Bananapatch: rosekolodny: Mambo Bananapatch: grokca: I never sand mice, it pisses them off.

Try the oven cleaner. Also pissed off mice are not really a problem.

You sound like someone who's never been bit by a mouse.  They give it their all.

The oven cleaner would calm the mouse down.


Fawlty Towers - Hammer
Youtube IcvxBDiC8QQ


/oh, buddha.
//my hamster?
///well, I could try...
 
2021-01-24 4:04:38 PM  

tintar: Psychopompous: No, I'm sorry, but I tried a brass brush on cast iron and it leaves a brassy film on the metal. Brass cookware has to be sealed in tin before cooking in it, so it follows that smearing brass on a cooking surface is bad. Just clean thoroughly before seasoning. The steel wire is softer than cast iron, so you really can't screw up the surface of the cast iron. It leaves a lovely burnished finish, while preserving the texture from the sand casting.  Definitely follow shop safety protocols. Goggles, dust mask, gloves, and a shirt you don't mind getting filthy with rust dust. I buy cast iron pans and decorative cast iron at flea markets and estate sales and fix them up on a regular basis.

ah, tyty.
my apologies for misinformation, then!

I both bow and hat-tip to your superior experience! (I know, we're still stuck in a bizarre timeline where #poeslaw is meaningless, but I do actually sincerely mean all of the above.)

also, lol, yes a thousand times yes - "do you have a shirt you hate? good!!! wear that."

here... here is a very, very normal and safe and not at all filthy thing we all do in our kitchens, right? right...?!

[Fark user image 850x1133]


Ms. Gough is a recovering middle-school science teacher; we did a number of experiments in our kitchen.  My favorite one is the exploding jack o' lantern using lycopodium powder.

Like this:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoUJ​G0​ReJ-c
 
2021-01-24 4:06:05 PM  

Gough: gopher321: UPDATE: holy crow, that was easy...10 min with the sander, brought the pebbly surface down to smooth as silk. 5 min with the 80 grit, 5 min with the 180. Time to reseason!

Clarification - it wasn't the Lodge preseasoning I was objecting to, it was the casting method of leaving a rough surface, which makes food stick. Maybe now I can chuck my teflon pans I keep buying over and over.

Stopping at 180 grit, what kind of crazy talk is that?  Time to up your game, at least take it up to 8000 grit.

https://taytools.com/collections/suppl​ies-abrasives-3m-lapping-microfinishin​g-film-polishing-paper/products/3m-281​q-wetordry-6-piece-set


This guy uses 30,000.

ゼリーは包丁になりますか?
Youtube Oadf4KNYz-I
 
2021-01-24 4:13:13 PM  
I know a guy who refinishes cast irons pans all the time.

First step - good old fashioned lye (which is the active ingredient in most oven cleaners).
 
2021-01-24 4:13:33 PM  

tintar: Xcott: Marcus Aurelius: 1. Turn gas grill onto HIGH.
2. Throw in the cast iron.
3. Drink 2 beers.
2.  JUST COOK YOUR GODDAMN FOOD ON THE GODDAMN GRILL
4. Turn off gas grill.

My method is clearly superior.

FTFY.  How do you get a great crust on a steak?  Option 1:  get a really hot fire going and put a crust on the steak.  Option 2:  "Oh you need cast iron from the 40s you need to go to swap meets like this amazing one I found by the river and oh it has to be mirror smooth here's how I prepare it and then continually maintain it I do what this guy does in the YouTube video but his temperatures are all wrong and my method only takes three days...."

although... I am very curious to know your secret step 3!

does it involve profit? or extra-sooper-sekrit garage-beers? or owls? please say it involves owls!!! and why do you hate charcoal so very, very much?

I do also admit to curiosity about people who sous-vide their ribeye/whatever and only then sear it afterward. never had that method.

or I guess you can just leave the sear off, so that it goes... *PLORP*
(Narrator: don't forget *GLIGGLE* too!)

[Fark user image 700x715]

/ha ha ha, creation-myth


....and I apparently get to be one of the 10,000 today, as I didn't realize I was an Achewood fan. Thanks! Gotta go read a ton of Achewood now.
 
2021-01-24 4:13:39 PM  

Mister Peejay: Gough: gopher321: UPDATE: holy crow, that was easy...10 min with the sander, brought the pebbly surface down to smooth as silk. 5 min with the 80 grit, 5 min with the 180. Time to reseason!

Clarification - it wasn't the Lodge preseasoning I was objecting to, it was the casting method of leaving a rough surface, which makes food stick. Maybe now I can chuck my teflon pans I keep buying over and over.

Stopping at 180 grit, what kind of crazy talk is that?  Time to up your game, at least take it up to 8000 grit.

https://taytools.com/collections/suppl​ies-abrasives-3m-lapping-microfinishin​g-film-polishing-paper/products/3m-281​q-wetordry-6-piece-set

This guy uses 30,000.

[YouTube video: ゼリーは包丁になりますか?]


TIL that 3M makes a 500,000 grit "lapping" paper.  I guess that must be to get rid of the scratches left from the 100,000 grit.
 
2021-01-24 4:21:13 PM  
It's all pertinent to me right now since I'm busy seasoning a 12 inch 1960 era lodge skillet I picked up at our local thrift store last week.  Bit of scrubbing with the chain mail scrubbie to get the gunk off, and cycling it on the camp stove a few times this afternoon with a bit of oil to 400f to let it get a good coating in there.  It's not my grandma's stovetop monster (I have no idea who got that thing) but it's gonna be a decent camp cooker when I'm done with it.
 
2021-01-24 4:27:37 PM  

phlegmjay: oldernell: Lodge now pre seasons their pans.  I don't know why you would want to remove it.  I've got pans that are over 70 years old and have never been unseasoned.

Sometimes something will happen to the seasoning in a spot or the pan will rust. In such cases people might want to take all the seasoning off and start over so that they can apply it evenly over the whole pan.

/ And, of course, there's the sanding the base metal to make it smooth thing that others are talking about. I've never done that because I don't have a sander or angle grinder. I have heard some dissenting voices that say the pebbled surface is better, but this is something I've wanted to try.


Naval jelly.
 
2021-01-24 4:33:46 PM  

Gough: Ms. Gough is a recovering middle-school science teacher; we did a number of experiments in our kitchen.  My favorite one is the exploding jack o' lantern using lycopodium powder.

Like this:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoUJG​0ReJ-c


holy-wow, I did not know about that stuff! so, it's good TIL! tyty.
'cos otherwise my inclination would have been... tannerite+magnesium... which... does never wendell, ah tell yu whut.
 
2021-01-24 4:47:15 PM  

rosekolodny: Mambo Bananapatch: grokca: I never sand mice, it pisses them off.

Try the oven cleaner. Also pissed off mice are not really a problem.

You sound like someone who's never been bit by a mouse.  They give it their all.


...man, Fark parties are wild
 
2021-01-24 4:49:32 PM  

tintar: Xcott: Marcus Aurelius: 1. Turn gas grill onto HIGH.
2. Throw in the cast iron.
3. Drink 2 beers.
2.  JUST COOK YOUR GODDAMN FOOD ON THE GODDAMN GRILL
4. Turn off gas grill.

My method is clearly superior.

FTFY.  How do you get a great crust on a steak?  Option 1:  get a really hot fire going and put a crust on the steak.  Option 2:  "Oh you need cast iron from the 40s you need to go to swap meets like this amazing one I found by the river and oh it has to be mirror smooth here's how I prepare it and then continually maintain it I do what this guy does in the YouTube video but his temperatures are all wrong and my method only takes three days...."

although... I am very curious to know your secret step 3!

does it involve profit? or extra-sooper-sekrit garage-beers? or owls? please say it involves owls!!! and why do you hate charcoal so very, very much?

I do also admit to curiosity about people who sous-vide their ribeye/whatever and only then sear it afterward. never had that method.

or I guess you can just leave the sear off, so that it goes... *PLORP*
(Narrator: don't forget *GLIGGLE* too!)

[Fark user image 700x715]

/ha ha ha, creation-myth


I have to admit, I was going to correct the "gas grill" bit too.  I'm such a charcoal fiend that I can pick out the brand by smell---and it's not just me, my kid can tell from his steak if I didn't use the lump charcoal from Wegman's.

I used to sous-vide steak, and it's still convenient when you're grilling for 20-40 people, but when grilling over charcoal I'd rather have the steak over the coals for as long as possible rather than sitting in a bag.

But yes, it all involves extra garage beers.  Or as Roast Beef would say, much crispy Stellas.  That golden action is so crunchy.  One more reason to use actual fire rather than simulating it with a pan that must then be carefully groomed.
 
2021-01-24 4:55:53 PM  

millia: The next pan I want to do I want to do with the electrolysis stripping, because a) chemistry is fun and b) REALLY clean pans.


Don't. Just don't. Not unless you want incredibly brittle pans that'll crack on you.

Electrolysis, unless you know exactly what you're doing and have a setup that has fine control will introduce a shiatload of hydrogen into the metal and fark up the crystalline structure. It's not terribly important in stuff that isn't going to be temperature stressed, but for something that is, like pans or blades that need re-tempering, it is a very, very bad thing.
 
2021-01-24 4:55:57 PM  

Squid_for_Brains: Don't buy Lodge cast iron. It's crap.

Browse some antique stores or go to EBay/Etsy and find some pre-1940s cast iron. Griswold and Wagner are both great; older pans have a ring and number. They are lighter weight for everyday use (go figure), and the surfaces are so smooth that bad seasoning can be gently scrubbed off with steel wool and re-done. I've rehabbed three now, and I don't use anything else.

Even if the surfaces are pitted and imperfect, they hold seasoning beautifully. You can see your reflection.


I have two Lodge pans from the before times, when they still, correctly, machined the inside surface smooth.  Now they've just cheapened out and dispense with the machining and feed you some "pre-seasoned" line of BS.

I also once had an even older Griswold in my youth.  It was thin and awesome and I made the stupid mistake of putting it under running water when it was still screaming hot.
 
2021-01-24 4:59:38 PM  

rosekolodny: SpectroBoy: I agree with the Boobies. If you have a self cleaning electric over use the self clean cycle there. 100% clean with no effort.

I also agree that a smooth surface is best. I hate the new pebbled pans they sell. I was fortunate enough to inherit by mother in law's ancient iron. On those the inside has been machined to a VERY flat and NOTHING sticks to then once seasoned.

I have my late FIL's chicken frying skillet that he inherited from his mother.  Slick as snot on a frozen doorknob.

If my house caught fire, I would grab it.


One of the few things we recovered from grandparents house fire was grandmothers wagner cast iron skillet. Handle was a little bent. Sanded and reseasoned, like it never happened.
 
2021-01-24 5:02:03 PM  

Gough: Mister Peejay: Gough: gopher321: UPDATE: holy crow, that was easy...10 min with the sander, brought the pebbly surface down to smooth as silk. 5 min with the 80 grit, 5 min with the 180. Time to reseason!

Clarification - it wasn't the Lodge preseasoning I was objecting to, it was the casting method of leaving a rough surface, which makes food stick. Maybe now I can chuck my teflon pans I keep buying over and over.

Stopping at 180 grit, what kind of crazy talk is that?  Time to up your game, at least take it up to 8000 grit.

https://taytools.com/collections/suppl​ies-abrasives-3m-lapping-microfinishin​g-film-polishing-paper/products/3m-281​q-wetordry-6-piece-set

This guy uses 30,000.

[YouTube video: ゼリーは包丁になりますか?]

TIL that 3M makes a 500,000 grit "lapping" paper.  I guess that must be to get rid of the scratches left from the 100,000 grit.


Pretty much

How to make mirror iPhone
Youtube 4k7hWv1lW6A


I mean, it's just lazy, stopping at 100,000 like this guy

/s
 
2021-01-24 5:16:29 PM  
I've never seen such monthly overthinking about cast iron pans. Must be like there is a news void...


Psychopompous: [Fark user image 850x850]
A cup wire brush like this one will cost you 5$ and will remove rust and seasoning from cast iron w/o removing any metal. It won't smooth out surfaces like sandpaper, but will last indefinitely. Chuck one into an angle grinder or high speed drill. If you are going to get into collecting rusty flea market cast iron, beg, borrow or steal a drill press to chuck it into, so you can hold the rusty pan with both hands.


NO.
As a machinist with decades of experience, no.
Think you are stronger than a 1/4 hp drill press? Got bad news for you...
The drill press has a platen or table... use it. The quill down feed in one hand, the pan in the other.
I'd throw you out of the shop if you kept doing otherwise, because I don't want to talk to OSHA about you.
 
2021-01-24 5:24:23 PM  

Xcott: But yes, it all involves extra garage beers.  Or as Roast Beef would say, much crispy Stellas.  That golden action is so crunchy.  One more reason to use actual fire rather than simulating it with a pan that must then be carefully groomed.


oh wow, a fellow-soul!!! you are now in green-3 as, "much crispy Stellas" - much respect!

lol, I know all that stuff by heart as brain tape since young times.

/started reading achewood in 2001
//and lurking on Fark same year
///and scored a MeFi account same year, somewhat rare at the time
\\/I do not look down on Stellas! they are indeed crispetty-crunchetty!
\/then again, I just-meow got home with 2 cases of natty daddy, so what the fark do I even know
 
2021-01-24 5:24:27 PM  

Psychopompous: [Fark user image 850x850]
A cup wire brush like this one will cost you 5$ and will remove rust and seasoning from cast iron w/o removing any metal. It won't smooth out surfaces like sandpaper, but will last indefinitely. Chuck one into an angle grinder or high speed drill. If you are going to get into collecting rusty flea market cast iron, beg, borrow or steal a drill press to chuck it into, so you can hold the rusty pan with both hands.


I pulled an old Dutch oven out of my parents' attic that was rusted.  Not as bad as ones left outside, but enough I had to strip & redo the seasnoning.  After an apple cider vinegar soak, I hit it with this brush then started the process of seasoning.  Put lots of swirl marks in the metal but sure cleaned it.  I used the hand drill though because you need to use it with liquid to help take away any rust removed, and to help prevent flash rusting.
 
2021-01-24 5:25:40 PM  

Gough: Mister Peejay: Gough: gopher321: UPDATE: holy crow, that was easy...10 min with the sander, brought the pebbly surface down to smooth as silk. 5 min with the 80 grit, 5 min with the 180. Time to reseason!

Clarification - it wasn't the Lodge preseasoning I was objecting to, it was the casting method of leaving a rough surface, which makes food stick. Maybe now I can chuck my teflon pans I keep buying over and over.

Stopping at 180 grit, what kind of crazy talk is that?  Time to up your game, at least take it up to 8000 grit.

https://taytools.com/collections/suppl​ies-abrasives-3m-lapping-microfinishin​g-film-polishing-paper/products/3m-281​q-wetordry-6-piece-set

This guy uses 30,000.

[YouTube video: ゼリーは包丁になりますか?]

TIL that 3M makes a 500,000 grit "lapping" paper.  I guess that must be to get rid of the scratches left from the 100,000 grit.


My finishing stones are 8,000 and 10,000 and I consider that overdone. *shrug*
(have machined optics)
 
2021-01-24 5:30:06 PM  

Percise1: Gough: Mister Peejay: Gough: gopher321: UPDATE: holy crow, that was easy...10 min with the sander, brought the pebbly surface down to smooth as silk. 5 min with the 80 grit, 5 min with the 180. Time to reseason!

Clarification - it wasn't the Lodge preseasoning I was objecting to, it was the casting method of leaving a rough surface, which makes food stick. Maybe now I can chuck my teflon pans I keep buying over and over.

Stopping at 180 grit, what kind of crazy talk is that?  Time to up your game, at least take it up to 8000 grit.

https://taytools.com/collections/suppl​ies-abrasives-3m-lapping-microfinishin​g-film-polishing-paper/products/3m-281​q-wetordry-6-piece-set

This guy uses 30,000.

[YouTube video: ゼリーは包丁になりますか?]

TIL that 3M makes a 500,000 grit "lapping" paper.  I guess that must be to get rid of the scratches left from the 100,000 grit.

My finishing stones are 8,000 and 10,000 and I consider that overdone. *shrug*
(have machined optics)


Agreed.  On top of those two, I also have a 14,000 for the final step of resharpening a straight razor that needs more than just a good stropping.  That level is way beyond what you need for anything less than actual shaving.
 
2021-01-24 5:52:08 PM  
Possible to use a sander like that to scrub bathroom tile?
 
2021-01-24 6:11:39 PM  

tintar: as Bajtaur noted... easy off is some very, very, very nasty stuff. I only ever use it on the stovetop gratings... outside. with a hose before they come back inside. also the grass dies for half a year. that stuff is skeery.

gopher321: Amazon had a sale on a cheap mouse sander for $30, so I thought Why not? I don't know if this Easy Off in a garbage bag is an easier/better method though.

I had to scrooble what a mouse sander even is!!!

eh, for 30 bucks I'd just get a cheap sonic screwdriver what can do not only that same thing, but like seventeen other things as well - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/​B003H054RY/

[Fark user image 850x541]


/trust me, you will suddenly find yourself sawing thru' things you somehow never realized needed sawin'-thru'
//this one only has 2 modes: 'off' (aka 'lurking...') - and - 'SONIC!!!'
///eh, suffices


Those are useful gadgets, but I wouldn't use it (or a mouse sander) on a skillet. A disc/orbital sander would get into corners without leaving weird pointy depressions.
 
2021-01-24 6:11:51 PM  

Porous Horace: Possible to use a sander like that to scrub bathroom tile?


the sonic-screwdriver I linked upthread has a grout-removal blade, but is not included - costs extra.

or if you simply meant cleaning/polishing... the sandpapers that came with mine are pretty coarse. and from the looks of it, the mouse sander people have mentioned ent exactly look like it comes with delicate ones neither. but you could always buy finer papers. (honestly the cheapskate in me sez, get the exact sandpaper of your choice, cut out appropriate shapes by hand, then double-sided tape it to your mouse or oscillating-tool or orbital or whatever?)
 
2021-01-24 6:18:08 PM  
This
https://www.amazon.com/Cleaner-Stainl​e​ss-Chainmail-Scrubber-Cookware/dp/B089​YWST67/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3DQ4AD6ZI46VV&d​child=1&keywords=chainmail+scrubber+ca​st+iron+smith&qid=1611530065&sprefix=c​hain+mail%2Caps%2C233&sr=8-7
Then bacon drippings.

Use it to blast a steak (start from frozen) until it has a beautiful ,charred crust with a cool center

Back to the chain mail (no soap, ever (the pan not you, you need the soap))

Pan is good for anything.
 
2021-01-24 6:20:44 PM  

EdwardTellerhands: Those are useful gadgets, but I wouldn't use it (or a mouse sander) on a skillet. A disc/orbital sander would get into corners without leaving weird pointy depressions.


agreed. I mean, I've never had a pan I had/or-needed-to the slightest inclination of ever taking a sander to, but yeah, an orbital does make so much more sense for the shape.

I've actually yet to ever use the pointy sander of the sonic screwdriver - the stuff I need to pare down has always been like doors and door-frames, so I just get sanding sponges from dollar tree, lol.
 
2021-01-24 6:28:50 PM  

tintar: oh wow, a fellow-soul!!! you are now in green-3 as, "much crispy Stellas" - much respect!



Livin' At the Corner of Dude & Catastrophe
Youtube CEzv_QHVPq4
 
2021-01-24 6:31:45 PM  

tintar: Porous Horace: Possible to use a sander like that to scrub bathroom tile?

the sonic-screwdriver I linked upthread has a grout-removal blade, but is not included - costs extra.

or if you simply meant cleaning/polishing... the sandpapers that came with mine are pretty coarse. and from the looks of it, the mouse sander people have mentioned ent exactly look like it comes with delicate ones neither. but you could always buy finer papers. (honestly the cheapskate in me sez, get the exact sandpaper of your choice, cut out appropriate shapes by hand, then double-sided tape it to your mouse or oscillating-tool or orbital or whatever?)


For regular cleaning, instead of scrubbing with a cleanser & sponge. Something like a Scotchbrite pad.
 
2021-01-24 6:36:36 PM  

tintar: EdwardTellerhands: Those are useful gadgets, but I wouldn't use it (or a mouse sander) on a skillet. A disc/orbital sander would get into corners without leaving weird pointy depressions.

agreed. I mean, I've never had a pan I had/or-needed-to the slightest inclination of ever taking a sander to, but yeah, an orbital does make so much more sense for the shape.

I've actually yet to ever use the pointy sander of the sonic screwdriver - the stuff I need to pare down has always been like doors and door-frames, so I just get sanding sponges from dollar tree, lol.


They're excellent for grout and cutting wood or metal flush with adjoining pieces, but meh for sanding. One of two things (or both) happens: The sandpaper creeps back from the tip and shreds or you put too much pressure on the front and create the aforesaid depressions. The weight and shape of the thing just makes precision and evenness impossible for areas larger than an inch or two.
 
2021-01-24 6:38:09 PM  

Xcott: tintar: oh wow, a fellow-soul!!! you are now in green-3 as, "much crispy Stellas" - much respect!

[iFrame https://www.youtube.com/embed/CEzv_QHV​Pq4?autoplay=1&widget_referrer=https%3​A%2F%2Fwww.fark.com&start=0&enablejsap​i=1&origin=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fark.com&​widgetid=1]


farking suh-weeeeet!
 
2021-01-24 6:52:34 PM  

Porous Horace: For regular cleaning, instead of scrubbing with a cleanser & sponge. Something like a Scotchbrite pad.


yeah I keep some of those dark-green thin non-sponge ones around for this exact purpose.
(the $waifu still keeps buying brillos, and gets mortally-offended when I simply ask, "why?" - well, no, that's not quite true, I have "a certain look" when I do that, so... that's really on-me, lol. the hell do I ever use brillo-pads on in the house/yard/car/any-of-the-wheres? never, niente nichevo, nothing. why are we amassing brillos, I really need to know!!!)

EdwardTellerhands: They're excellent for grout and cutting wood or metal flush with adjoining pieces, but meh for sanding. One of two things (or both) happens: The sandpaper creeps back from the tip and shreds or you put too much pressure on the front and create the aforesaid depressions. The weight and shape of the thing just makes precision and evenness impossible for areas larger than an inch or two.


this is kinda-sorta exactly what I always ass-umed, and why I've still yet to try the pointy-sander-part. doesn't hurt that it's there/possible, but, yeah, my go-to remains those dollar tree sanding-sponges or sometimes the teeny drums on my RTX-B (or also the even-cheaper ...*tapatap*... Neiko-branded rotary tool) - man, you get an official 4486 keyless-chuck, and those cheap knockoffs can do just about any of the things. (well, to be fair, the Craftsman one is almost-quality, even tho' still cheap.)

/the neiko is particularly-amusing mainly because even at 22 bucks came with a 42" flex-cable - that... solves SO MANY OF THE PROBLEMS, ha ha ha.
//god, at some point I was lusting after the RTX-6, and $mai_waifu actually bought one for me
///ummm... woman, the rtx-b was already sufficient, but thank you I am not ungrateful?
\\/why do I have 3 freaking non-dremels?
\/oh, right. because the universe knows what I did.
 
2021-01-24 7:01:40 PM  

tintar: Porous Horace: For regular cleaning, instead of scrubbing with a cleanser & sponge. Something like a Scotchbrite pad.

yeah I keep some of those dark-green thin non-sponge ones around for this exact purpose.
(the $waifu still keeps buying brillos, and gets mortally-offended when I simply ask, "why?" - well, no, that's not quite true, I have "a certain look" when I do that, so... that's really on-me, lol. the hell do I ever use brillo-pads on in the house/yard/car/any-of-the-wheres? never, niente nichevo, nothing. why are we amassing brillos, I really need to know!!!)

EdwardTellerhands: They're excellent for grout and cutting wood or metal flush with adjoining pieces, but meh for sanding. One of two things (or both) happens: The sandpaper creeps back from the tip and shreds or you put too much pressure on the front and create the aforesaid depressions. The weight and shape of the thing just makes precision and evenness impossible for areas larger than an inch or two.

this is kinda-sorta exactly what I always ass-umed, and why I've still yet to try the pointy-sander-part. doesn't hurt that it's there/possible, but, yeah, my go-to remains those dollar tree sanding-sponges or sometimes the teeny drums on my RTX-B (or also the even-cheaper ...*tapatap*... Neiko-branded rotary tool) - man, you get an official 4486 keyless-chuck, and those cheap knockoffs can do just about any of the things. (well, to be fair, the Craftsman one is almost-quality, even tho' still cheap.)

/the neiko is particularly-amusing mainly because even at 22 bucks came with a 42" flex-cable - that... solves SO MANY OF THE PROBLEMS, ha ha ha.
//god, at some point I was lusting after the RTX-6, and $mai_waifu actually bought one for me
///ummm... woman, the rtx-b was already sufficient, but thank you I am not ungrateful?
\\/why do I have 3 freaking non-dremels?
\/oh, right. because the universe knows what I did.


Oh, I've got one of those rotary tools in every damn room! Ten bucks at Harbor Freight, and for my purposes as good as Dremel.
 
2021-01-24 7:42:57 PM  

Marcus Aurelius: 1. Turn gas grill onto HIGH.
2. Throw in the cast iron.
3. Drink 2 beers.
4. Turn off gas grill.

My method is clearly superior.


But is four minutes really enough?
 
2021-01-24 7:48:01 PM  
I've used Easy Off to strip several pans for wedding presents. It works great, but I usually only let it sit for 2 hrs vs the 8 the video suggests and it takes 2 applications to get the really old stuff off.
 
2021-01-24 7:56:24 PM  

gopher321: UPDATE: holy crow, that was easy...10 min with the sander, brought the pebbly surface down to smooth as silk. 5 min with the 80 grit, 5 min with the 180. Time to reseason!

Clarification - it wasn't the Lodge preseasoning I was objecting to, it was the casting method of leaving a rough surface, which makes food stick. Maybe now I can chuck my teflon pans I keep buying over and over.


I read this far scratching my head at the general confusion about reseasoning vs resurfacing.
 
2021-01-24 7:57:09 PM  

Jesus McSordid: Marcus Aurelius: 1. Turn gas grill onto HIGH.
2. Throw in the cast iron.
3. Drink 2 beers.
4. Turn off gas grill.

My method is clearly superior.

But is four minutes really enough?


mostly depends on how many beers you got?
 
2021-01-24 8:06:09 PM  

EdwardTellerhands: tintar: Porous Horace: For regular cleaning, instead of scrubbing with a cleanser & sponge. Something like a Scotchbrite pad.

yeah I keep some of those dark-green thin non-sponge ones around for this exact purpose.
(the $waifu still keeps buying brillos, and gets mortally-offended when I simply ask, "why?" - well, no, that's not quite true, I have "a certain look" when I do that, so... that's really on-me, lol. the hell do I ever use brillo-pads on in the house/yard/car/any-of-the-wheres? never, niente nichevo, nothing. why are we amassing brillos, I really need to know!!!)

EdwardTellerhands: They're excellent for grout and cutting wood or metal flush with adjoining pieces, but meh for sanding. One of two things (or both) happens: The sandpaper creeps back from the tip and shreds or you put too much pressure on the front and create the aforesaid depressions. The weight and shape of the thing just makes precision and evenness impossible for areas larger than an inch or two.

this is kinda-sorta exactly what I always ass-umed, and why I've still yet to try the pointy-sander-part. doesn't hurt that it's there/possible, but, yeah, my go-to remains those dollar tree sanding-sponges or sometimes the teeny drums on my RTX-B (or also the even-cheaper ...*tapatap*... Neiko-branded rotary tool) - man, you get an official 4486 keyless-chuck, and those cheap knockoffs can do just about any of the things. (well, to be fair, the Craftsman one is almost-quality, even tho' still cheap.)

/the neiko is particularly-amusing mainly because even at 22 bucks came with a 42" flex-cable - that... solves SO MANY OF THE PROBLEMS, ha ha ha.
//god, at some point I was lusting after the RTX-6, and $mai_waifu actually bought one for me
///ummm... woman, the rtx-b was already sufficient, but thank you I am not ungrateful?
\\/why do I have 3 freaking non-dremels?
\/oh, right. because the universe knows what I did.

Oh, I've got one of those rotary tools in every damn room! Ten bucks at Harbor F ...


ha ha ha, I am... NOT ALLOWED INTO HARBOR FREIGHT. and... this is not the store's policy - this is simply the wife's general principle / jurisprudence.

do we really need 3 different AC->DC->DC spool-guns? no, and I will readily-admit we do not need even a single one.

hers: "ok but what exactly do you need to 'weld' around here? also, what even is this 'welding' you speak of?"
me: (*hangdog face*) "yeah yeah yeah, urite. and in fact, it IS a silly place. ok..."

/altho' ...ex-wife?
//could put a rotary-hammer thru' 2 feet of concrete, no problem. and weld anything-to-anything
///how super-hawt even is that?!
 
2021-01-24 8:15:58 PM  

arrogantbastich: The only cleaning mine get is the occasional boiling water to get some persistent bits off with just lightly scraping it with a fork. The only time we actually reseasoned a pan was when we had some idiot (FIL!) wash it with dishsoap. We didn't want to refinish it because it was super smooth. Just a mild abrasive sponge and lots of steam.


Dish soap will not damage seasoning, there is no lye in soap anymore so you can use soap on the pans.
 
2021-01-24 8:32:16 PM  

Xcott: I used to sous-vide steak, and it's still convenient when you're grilling for 20-40 people, but when grilling over charcoal I'd rather have the steak over the coals for as long as possible rather than sitting in a bag.

But yes, it all involves extra garage beers.  Or as Roast Beef would say, much crispy Stellas.  That golden action is so crunchy.  One more reason to use actual fire rather than simulating it with a pan that must then be carefully groomed.


Then you close the circle by using bacon to sear your steak.
Flaming Bacon Lance of Death, from Theo Gray's book "Mad Science"
Youtube w9dskxN10N0
 
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