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(Eater)   Legendary pizza chef Chris Bianco praises state of American pizza, particularly rise of high-quality artisanal ingredients unavailable a generation ago. "I mean, shiat, back in the day, I begged somebody to grow arugula for me"   (eater.com) divider line 66
    More: Cool, Pizzeria Bianco, water filtration, mozzarella, Tucson  
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1146 clicks; posted to Geek » on 07 Aug 2014 at 10:36 AM (36 weeks ago)   |  Favorite    |   share:  Share on Twitter share via Email Share on Facebook   more»



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2014-08-07 09:11:12 AM  
This is a great time for a lot of cuisines. Haute cuisine still has a place, and there are folks who are doing some beautiful work--both to the eyes, to the taste, and for their local purveyors--but the real fun is the middle of the road stuff. You are seeing great stuff done in brew pubs, there are amazing BBQ joints, this is a great time to be doing fish with the profusion of stuff at the market, and with more folks aware of what and where fish are caught, it's a great time to be doing sustainable food. There are more and more folks coming to farm to table--which benefits farmers who get to deal directly, and you're seeing a lot more cattle and pork going straight to restaurants with little interference from middlemen. The profusion of vegetables and produce that are now available is great to see. Heck, you can find chayote up in Maine now. Public awareness of how their food is grown and produced is becoming a selling point, and from an industry point of view, that means a lot more choices on my end, which means I get to do more of the food that I want to do, without having to compromise as much on price points.

Pizza is something that is just so rich in variants and possibilities that it's one of those dishes that you can play with a great deal. Crust, sauce, toppings, styles, it's a wide open book, and if you do it well, people will beat a path to your door. And the industry is really forcing the larger players, the ones who do the most generic and mass produced product that they can to squeeze every dollar out of, to step up their game just to compete. That means better choices for the public, that means better quality all around. There are still some really sh*tty pizza joints out there, don't get me wrong, but the contrast between the best and the worst is even more striking today, and smaller places that do pizza not just well, but do so with an eye to their community, that's something to watch.

It's a good time to be cooking, because the choices abound.
 
2014-08-07 10:29:12 AM  
Indeed, we live in a golden and crispy age.

It's a great time to be a fat man with a telephone.
 
2014-08-07 10:43:52 AM  

hubiestubert: This is a great time for a lot of cuisines. Haute cuisine still has a place, and there are folks who are doing some beautiful work--both to the eyes, to the taste, and for their local purveyors--but the real fun is the middle of the road stuff. You are seeing great stuff done in brew pubs, there are amazing BBQ joints, this is a great time to be doing fish with the profusion of stuff at the market, and with more folks aware of what and where fish are caught, it's a great time to be doing sustainable food. There are more and more folks coming to farm to table--which benefits farmers who get to deal directly, and you're seeing a lot more cattle and pork going straight to restaurants with little interference from middlemen. The profusion of vegetables and produce that are now available is great to see. Heck, you can find chayote up in Maine now. Public awareness of how their food is grown and produced is becoming a selling point, and from an industry point of view, that means a lot more choices on my end, which means I get to do more of the food that I want to do, without having to compromise as much on price points.

Pizza is something that is just so rich in variants and possibilities that it's one of those dishes that you can play with a great deal. Crust, sauce, toppings, styles, it's a wide open book, and if you do it well, people will beat a path to your door. And the industry is really forcing the larger players, the ones who do the most generic and mass produced product that they can to squeeze every dollar out of, to step up their game just to compete. That means better choices for the public, that means better quality all around. There are still some really sh*tty pizza joints out there, don't get me wrong, but the contrast between the best and the worst is even more striking today, and smaller places that do pizza not just well, but do so with an eye to their community, that's something to watch.

It's a good time to be cooking, because the choices abound.


I say we insist Drew hire hubie to be in charge (and generously compensated for time and effort) of the food for all future Fark parties
 
2014-08-07 10:46:31 AM  
Putting arugula on pizza is a waste of good arugula and of pizza crust.
 
2014-08-07 10:47:44 AM  
Just as long as he's not cooking that faux-pizza cake they call "Chicago Style" then by all means he's good in my book.
 
2014-08-07 10:49:59 AM  
I know, those hot and readies really changed the game.
 
2014-08-07 10:53:26 AM  
I'm imagining this guy sitting in his apartment carefully pruning and watering plants under bright artificial light when suddenly a SWAT team busts in, but it turns out he's growing herbs and vegetables, not pot.
 
2014-08-07 10:58:23 AM  
how can a pizza chef be "legendary"?
 
2014-08-07 10:59:24 AM  
What does arugula have to do with pizza?
 
2014-08-07 11:01:16 AM  

SuperChuck: What does arugula have to do with pizza?



Hopefully, it was in the salad I was having for lunch when i decided to have pizza for dinner.

That's about as close as I can get those two.
 
2014-08-07 11:08:03 AM  
because a generation ago , no one was a big enough coont to think that they needed meaningless words like "artisinal" to sell a god damn pizza.
 
2014-08-07 11:11:14 AM  
One of the best dishes ever. Pizza a melting mouthwatering cheese with sweet tasting tomato sauce on top of crispy baked dough. I ll screw my diet for slice of it.
 
2014-08-07 11:20:15 AM  
artisanal... ingredients? ok then
 
2014-08-07 11:21:07 AM  

LazarusLong42: Putting arugula on pizza is a waste of good arugula and of pizza crust.


I made a white pizza with mussels, arugula, parmesan, garlic, lemon juice, and truffle olive oil that was outstanding.  Loosely modeled on Frank Pepe's white clam pizza.
 
2014-08-07 11:39:56 AM  
His pizza place in Phoenix serves really good pizza. Not a big place and if you time it right, you can enjoy a nice meal in a cozy place.
 
2014-08-07 11:49:22 AM  

mistrmind: Just as long as he's not cooking that faux-pizza cake they call "Chicago Style" then by all means he's good in my book.


No, he makes real pizza. This is an example of his instagram feed.
 
2014-08-07 11:53:21 AM  

gfid: how can a pizza chef be "legendary"?


wait for it.
 
2014-08-07 11:57:08 AM  

moothemagiccow: artisanal... ingredients? ok then


Exactly, once I read that I knew it was hipster trash. That word is used way too much and never describes something that is truly artisanal. No one is painstakingly crafting farking ingredients.
 
2014-08-07 11:57:57 AM  

That Guy Jeff: mistrmind: Just as long as he's not cooking that faux-pizza cake they call "Chicago Style" then by all means he's good in my book.

No, he makes real pizza. This is an example of his instagram feed.


I was trying to instigate an argument between real pizza and deep dish abomination.   However I miss wood fired pizza.  Bertuccis used to do wood fire before completely switching to gas ovens.  Completely killed the taste.
 
2014-08-07 12:00:28 PM  
DoubleEcho88: Exactly, once I read that I knew it was hipster trash. That word is used way too much and never describes something that is truly artisanal. No one is painstakingly crafting farking ingredients.

The only use of the word "artisan" in the article refers to cheese.  Artisanal cheeses do exist.
 
2014-08-07 12:02:24 PM  

Ambitwistor: DoubleEcho88: Exactly, once I read that I knew it was hipster trash. That word is used way too much and never describes something that is truly artisanal. No one is painstakingly crafting farking ingredients.

The only use of the word "artisan" in the article refers to cheese.  Artisanal cheeses do exist.


Really, they make all their cheese by hand? I'm so sure they do!
 
2014-08-07 12:07:17 PM  

DoubleEcho88: Ambitwistor: DoubleEcho88: Exactly, once I read that I knew it was hipster trash. That word is used way too much and never describes something that is truly artisanal. No one is painstakingly crafting farking ingredients.

The only use of the word "artisan" in the article refers to cheese.  Artisanal cheeses do exist.

Really, they make all their cheese by hand? I'm so sure they do!


Artisanal just means SOMEBODY made it by hand. Doesn't have to be the restaurant. Though from what he said about measuring the fattiness of cheese, they probably either make it in house or have a very close working relationship with the people who do.
 
2014-08-07 12:08:09 PM  

Ambitwistor: DoubleEcho88: Exactly, once I read that I knew it was hipster trash. That word is used way too much and never describes something that is truly artisanal. No one is painstakingly crafting farking ingredients.

The only use of the word "artisan" in the article refers to cheese.  Artisanal cheeses do exist.


Not at the Pizza Hut where DoubleEcho88 and moothemagiccow usually eat...
 
2014-08-07 12:09:21 PM  
Legendary pizza chef whose place has only been open since the 80s and is in Arizona... Pizza legends aren't made until 3 generations in, and certainly not in Arizona.
 
2014-08-07 12:15:17 PM  

ILostMyPassword: Legendary pizza chef whose place has only been open since the 80s and is in Arizona... Pizza legends aren't made until 3 generations in, and certainly not in Arizona.


I wasn't aware we lived in a feudal society where one's family lineage dictates their position in society. The quality of the pizza is the only metric that qualifies a pizza chef as "legendary."

I've never had this guy's pizza, I'm just pointing out your stupidity.
 
2014-08-07 12:44:34 PM  

Ambitwistor: LazarusLong42: Putting arugula on pizza is a waste of good arugula and of pizza crust.

I made a white pizza with mussels, arugula, parmesan, garlic, lemon juice, and truffle olive oil that was outstanding.  Loosely modeled on Frank Pepe's white clam pizza.


That's not a pizza. That's a very confused seafood quiche.
 
Oak
2014-08-07 12:51:41 PM  
Still no good pizza in Los Angeles.
 
2014-08-07 01:04:30 PM  
Arugula (or Roquette/Rocket) is great on pizza - especially the very nutty/peppery mature leaves if you can find/grow them

Make a classic Margherita Pizza (maybe add some Parma Ham or Speck) and add some raw Roquette tossed in salt and olive oil as soon as it comes out of the oven. So delicious, so simple.
 
2014-08-07 01:12:19 PM  

WilderKWight: Ambitwistor: LazarusLong42: Putting arugula on pizza is a waste of good arugula and of pizza crust.

I made a white pizza with mussels, arugula, parmesan, garlic, lemon juice, and truffle olive oil that was outstanding.  Loosely modeled on Frank Pepe's white clam pizza.

That's not a pizza. That's a very confused seafood quiche.


whatever it's called, i think I might make it tonight. Sounds good

/not all pizza is just overprocessed crap buried in fake cheese on a ketchup stained sheet of cardboard
/on the other hand, I miss he "Heart Attack" from Chez Pierre in Laval. You could hear your arteries clogging
//It took the Chez Pierre Diablo pizza to unclog them- everything burned
 
2014-08-07 01:15:30 PM  

CheekyMonkey: Ambitwistor: DoubleEcho88: Exactly, once I read that I knew it was hipster trash. That word is used way too much and never describes something that is truly artisanal. No one is painstakingly crafting farking ingredients.

The only use of the word "artisan" in the article refers to cheese.  Artisanal cheeses do exist.

Not at the Pizza Hut where DoubleEcho88 and moothemagiccow usually eat...


I exclusively eat at cheap, greasy no-name pizza places but Pizza Hut is the worst pizza of all time. fark you.
 
2014-08-07 01:26:55 PM  
Arugula?
img547.imageshack.us
 
2014-08-07 01:30:00 PM  

hubiestubert: It's a good time to be cooking, because the choices abound.


I think I've told you this before, but you would so love Chicago right now. Really interesting stuff going on all the the place, especially the middle-market.
 
2014-08-07 01:52:07 PM  

Stratohead: because a generation ago , no one was a big enough coont to think that they needed meaningless words like "artisinal" to sell a god damn pizza.


This! The rise of food snobs in this country is crazy.
 
2014-08-07 02:00:47 PM  
"These ingredients are artisanal." / "Good night everybody!"
 
2014-08-07 02:21:47 PM  

Land_of_the_Magic_Dragon: Stratohead: because a generation ago , no one was a big enough coont to think that they needed meaningless words like "artisinal" to sell a god damn pizza.

This! The rise of food snobs in this country is crazy.


i find the history of horrible food in this country to be much crazier.
 
2014-08-07 02:33:50 PM  
So the guy who runs a pizza place is too stupid to hit up a farmers market? Why does that not surprise me in the least.
 
2014-08-07 02:34:49 PM  

DoubleEcho88: Ambitwistor: DoubleEcho88: Exactly, once I read that I knew it was hipster trash. That word is used way too much and never describes something that is truly artisanal. No one is painstakingly crafting farking ingredients.

The only use of the word "artisan" in the article refers to cheese.  Artisanal cheeses do exist.

Really, they make all their cheese by hand? I'm so sure they do!


Good god, you're stupid.  "Artisanal" refers to the process by which it was made.  It doesn't stop being "artisanal cheese" if you sell it to somebody else.
 
2014-08-07 02:37:53 PM  

montreal_medic: Arugula (or Roquette/Rocket) is great on pizza - especially the very nutty/peppery mature leaves if you can find/grow them

Make a classic Margherita Pizza (maybe add some Parma Ham or Speck) and add some raw Roquette tossed in salt and olive oil as soon as it comes out of the oven. So delicious, so simple.


Another variation I like is a margherita base with arugula and green peppercorns to add to the peppery taste.  Some soft chevre if I want it to be cheesier, or prosciutto if I want meat.
 
2014-08-07 02:45:46 PM  

Ambitwistor: DoubleEcho88: Ambitwistor: DoubleEcho88: Exactly, once I read that I knew it was hipster trash. That word is used way too much and never describes something that is truly artisanal. No one is painstakingly crafting farking ingredients.

The only use of the word "artisan" in the article refers to cheese.  Artisanal cheeses do exist.

Really, they make all their cheese by hand? I'm so sure they do!

Good god, you're stupid.  "Artisanal" refers to the process by which it was made.  It doesn't stop being "artisanal cheese" if you sell it to somebody else.


You're missing the point. Artisanal is thrown around and given title to things that it really should not be. Cheese is not something that can or should be "artisanal". Nor is things like beer or alcohol, which are made in a similar fashion.

It's more about the overuse of the word. They did not create this goddamn cheese by hand, the bacteria did and then someone formed and sliced the block. A building, a monument, a painting...those things are art. Cheese is not farking art.
 
2014-08-07 02:52:08 PM  
 
2014-08-07 02:52:21 PM  

Ambitwistor: montreal_medic: Arugula (or Roquette/Rocket) is great on pizza - especially the very nutty/peppery mature leaves if you can find/grow them

Make a classic Margherita Pizza (maybe add some Parma Ham or Speck) and add some raw Roquette tossed in salt and olive oil as soon as it comes out of the oven. So delicious, so simple.

Another variation I like is a margherita base with arugula and green peppercorns to add to the peppery taste.  Some soft chevre if I want it to be cheesier, or prosciutto if I want meat.


have you tried burrata? Tends to require you get the crust partly cooked beforehand, since it is so "melty" but if you get the crust started on a hot grill and flip it, putting the toppings on the char side, the cream just soaks in without making it soggy. Pure heaven.

Or course burrata crostini with proscutto,  fig jam and olive oil is the best thing in the whole world
 
2014-08-07 02:55:17 PM  

DoubleEcho88: You're missing the point. Artisanal is thrown around and given title to things that it really should not be. Cheese is not something that can or should be "artisanal". Nor is things like beer or alcohol, which are made in a similar fashion.

It's more about the overuse of the word. They did not create this goddamn cheese by hand, the bacteria did and then someone formed and sliced the block. A building, a monument, a painting...those things are art. Cheese is not farking art.


Maybe you should go and look up what the word artisanal means.
 
2014-08-07 03:00:55 PM  

DoubleEcho88: Ambitwistor: DoubleEcho88: Ambitwistor: DoubleEcho88: Exactly, once I read that I knew it was hipster trash. That word is used way too much and never describes something that is truly artisanal. No one is painstakingly crafting farking ingredients.

The only use of the word "artisan" in the article refers to cheese.  Artisanal cheeses do exist.

Really, they make all their cheese by hand? I'm so sure they do!

Good god, you're stupid.  "Artisanal" refers to the process by which it was made.  It doesn't stop being "artisanal cheese" if you sell it to somebody else.

You're missing the point. Artisanal is thrown around and given title to things that it really should not be. Cheese is not something that can or should be "artisanal". Nor is things like beer or alcohol, which are made in a similar fashion.

It's more about the overuse of the word. They did not create this goddamn cheese by hand, the bacteria did and then someone formed and sliced the block. A building, a monument, a painting...those things are art. Cheese is not farking art.


artisanal does not equal art.

an artisan is a skilled person who works with their hands.

an artist is someone who makes art.

the artisan might be a good crown molding guy, the artist is the guy who designed the mural.

when it comes to food, they have adopted artisinal's classic definition of skilled labor of the hand, and applied it to the production of the food, meaning it required skilled labor and was made by hand.

there is a big difference between american cheese product production and making a real cheese (with a rind, and all that other shiat).

but, to call it artisanal, does it meet the definition?  (1) skilled labor, and (2) by hand.
 
2014-08-07 03:15:03 PM  

RainbeauxSue: ...Though from what he said about measuring the fattiness of cheese, they probably either make it in house or have a very close working relationship with the people who do.


Factory-made mozz for the pizza market has been a heavily engineered product for decades. Different customers have different preferences for "oiling off" and how much it browns (this is a Maillard reaction thing and depends on leaving a little lactose in the cheese IIRC), and pretty much every manufacturer is capable of making it to spec.
 
2014-08-07 03:28:39 PM  
0.media.todaysbigthing.cvcdn.com
 
2014-08-07 03:31:54 PM  
UNCLE GENO's  is best pizza.

on time delivery, he guarantees it.
 
2014-08-07 04:21:45 PM  
I avoid people and places that use the word artisanal. Sounds like such a bullshiat term.

/made a friend mad when I wouldn't do a food photography session for one of her clients because the Chef kept using that word.
//principles man... gotta have them
 
2014-08-07 04:29:22 PM  

Titanius Anglesmith: I avoid people and places that use the word artisanal. Sounds like such a bullshiat term.

/made a friend mad when I wouldn't do a food photography session for one of her clients because the Chef kept using that word.
//principles man... gotta have them


pretty much as soon as frozen pizza and Dominos started offering "artisinal" lines,
or people started marketing "artisinal craft beers"  the term ceased to mean a damn thing.

as about as much "skill" of an "artisan" goes into a fast food pizza as goes into the assembly line construction of a MacDonalds cheeseburger, or a TacoBell bean burrito.
 
2014-08-07 04:38:46 PM  

Stratohead: Titanius Anglesmith: I avoid people and places that use the word artisanal. Sounds like such a bullshiat term.

/made a friend mad when I wouldn't do a food photography session for one of her clients because the Chef kept using that word.
//principles man... gotta have them

pretty much as soon as frozen pizza and Dominos started offering "artisinal" lines,
or people started marketing "artisinal craft beers"  the term ceased to mean a damn thing.

as about as much "skill" of an "artisan" goes into a fast food pizza as goes into the assembly line construction of a MacDonalds cheeseburger, or a TacoBell bean burrito.


I think it started when Subway began calling employees "sandwich artists".
 
2014-08-07 04:58:16 PM  

Stratohead: Titanius Anglesmith: I avoid people and places that use the word artisanal. Sounds like such a bullshiat term.

/made a friend mad when I wouldn't do a food photography session for one of her clients because the Chef kept using that word.
//principles man... gotta have them

pretty much as soon as frozen pizza and Dominos started offering "artisinal" lines,
or people started marketing "artisinal craft beers"  the term ceased to mean a damn thing.

as about as much "skill" of an "artisan" goes into a fast food pizza as goes into the assembly line construction of a MacDonalds cheeseburger, or a TacoBell bean burrito.



So you are upset at people who use a term correctly because there are dumbasses who do not?
 
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