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(BBC)   Scots climbers try to save graffiti on cliff face, as several difficult climb routes take their names from the scrawls. Who wouldn't want to conquer the ""PISS OFF WANKER" or the famed "Wully's a bawbag"?   (bbc.co.uk) divider line 41
    More: Amusing, PISS OFF WANKER, Medical glove, Historic Scotland  
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6732 clicks; posted to Main » on 17 Jul 2012 at 5:30 AM (2 years ago)   |  Favorite    |   share:  Share on Twitter share via Email Share on Facebook   more»



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2012-07-16 09:20:54 PM  
2.bp.blogspot.com
 
2012-07-16 09:35:55 PM  
All I gots is a fiver.
 
2012-07-16 09:42:16 PM  
Britain's Mount Rushmore is clearly not to be missed.
 
2012-07-16 10:06:06 PM  
 
2012-07-16 11:26:18 PM  
That's right near "I've got a great big tonker", isn't it?
 
2012-07-17 01:40:48 AM  

ox45tallboy: That's right near "I've got a great big tonker", isn't it?


Aye, ye great daftie.
 
2012-07-17 02:11:51 AM  
Who hasn't wanted to climb Mt. We're Ruled by Effete Assholes?
 
2012-07-17 05:34:26 AM  
Cook Pass Babtridge
 
2012-07-17 05:38:57 AM  

ox45tallboy: That's right near "I've got a great big tonker", isn't it?


www.wearysloth.com

/quite small, actually
 
2012-07-17 06:39:46 AM  
What's a giraffe doing on a cliff face?

*puts on glasses

Never mind
 
2012-07-17 06:48:30 AM  

PainInTheASP: Steve McClure trying Rhapsody on Dumbarton, the hardest route (in the world?).

Dave MacLeod, the first guy ever to successfully climb it. Trying...and failing. (NSFW language)


The hardest TRAD route in the world. 5.14a-ish. Not that climbing 5.14 on trad gear isn't very impressive, and to be sure, Dave McLeod is a beast, but let's get real- Sharma was sending climbs four grades harder 5 years before Rhapsody went, and several people had already onsighted harder climbs.

Also, leave the graffiti where it is. You wouldn't blast the top off of K2 just because somone painted their initials on it.

/Wants to send Action Directe
 
2012-07-17 06:50:08 AM  

Rufus Lee King: Seriously, though, I learned a new word today: "bawbag". Who says FARK isn't educational? If I ever want to get my ass kicked in Scotland, I'm all set.


That's just nuts.
 
2012-07-17 07:24:25 AM  
You know it's a slow newsday when....
 
2012-07-17 07:50:09 AM  

Z-clipped:
The hardest TRAD route in the world. 5.14a-ish. Not that climbing 5.14 on trad gear isn't very impressive, and to be sure, Dave McLeod is a beast, but let's get real- Sharma was sending climbs four grades harder 5 years before Rhapsody went, and several people had already onsighted harder climbs.


Translation?
 
2012-07-17 07:56:18 AM  
Hey dude do you know your fly is open and your deek Is hanging out?

Know it? Hell I named it!
 
2012-07-17 08:12:38 AM  
And a disposable latex glove, like the ones they give away at petrol stations.

Is this for the benefit of mysophobic idiots or just the ones who can't pump gas without pouring it all over themselves? Because either way it's a really stupid "reason" to generate yet more waste.
 
2012-07-17 08:25:53 AM  

Flakeloaf: And a disposable latex glove, like the ones they give away at petrol stations.

Is this for the benefit of mysophobic idiots or just the ones who can't pump gas without pouring it all over themselves? Because either way it's a really stupid "reason" to generate yet more waste.


Probably for pumping diesel.
 
2012-07-17 08:52:59 AM  

Flakeloaf: And a disposable latex glove, like the ones they give away at petrol stations.

Is this for the benefit of mysophobic idiots or just the ones who can't pump gas without pouring it all over themselves? Because either way it's a really stupid "reason" to generate yet more waste.


it's because the pump handles often have a nice coating of fuel on them. If you're in a suit or dress, you really don't want to 1. get that shiat on your clothes and 2. get the smell on your hands.
 
2012-07-17 09:10:33 AM  

Rufus Lee King: [forbiddenplanet.co.uk image 420x306]


That's Oor Wullie, I used to get that annual as a child, it alternated between that and The Bruins every two years. I'd completely forgotten, cheers!
 
2012-07-17 09:21:10 AM  
I think they should leave the graffiti. Even writing on the walls of historical sites started off that way.

/plus can you imagine some of the conversations that they will have in the future when this shiat is found?
//why do most stories remind me of something I read in HHGTTG

"I'm afraid," he said at last, "that the Question and the Answer are mutually exclusive. Knowledge of one logically precludes knowledge of the other. It is impossible that both can ever be known about the same Universe."
"I wasn't very impressed with it when I first knew what it was," he said, "but now I think back to how impressed I was by the Prince's reason, and how soon afterward I couldn't recall it at all, I think it might be a lot more helpful. Would you like to know what it is? Would you?" They nodded dumbly. "I bet you would. If you're that interested I suggest you go and look for it. It is written in thirty-foot-high letters of fire on top of the Quentulus Quazgar Mountains in the land of Sevorbeupstry on the planet Preliumtarn, third out from the sun Zarss in Galactic Sector QQ7 ActiveJ Gamma. it is guarded by the Lajestic Vantrashell of Lob."
There was a long silence following this announcement, which was finally broken by Arthur. "Sorry, it's where?" he said.
"It is written," repeated Prak, "in thirty-foot-high letters of fire on top of the Quentulus Quazgar Mountains in the land of Sevorbeupstry on the planet Preliumtarn, third out from the..."
"Sorry," said Arthur again, "which mountains?"
"The Quentulus Quazgar Mountains in the land of Sevorbeupstry on the planet..."
"Which land was that? I didn't quite catch it."
"Sevorsbeupstry, on the planet..."
"Sevorbe what?"
"Oh, for heaven's sake," said Prak, and died testily.

///We apologize for the inconvenience
 
2012-07-17 09:24:53 AM  

orbister: Z-clipped:
The hardest TRAD route in the world. 5.14a-ish. Not that climbing 5.14 on trad gear isn't very impressive, and to be sure, Dave McLeod is a beast, but let's get real- Sharma was sending climbs four grades harder 5 years before Rhapsody went, and several people had already onsighted harder climbs.

Translation?


Trad climbing -- climbing by placing anchors as you go up, and removing them when you get past them. As opposed to free climbing (climbing with no equipment other than a safety rope), sport (preset anchors that stay fixed in the rock), and free solo (climbing with no protection whatsoever)

5.14a -- a grade of climbing. The 5 prefix means it's a climb, and will often be omitted on harder routes. A fit beginner can more or less handle a 5.6 without too much problem. At 5.12, people started adding letters. Thus, climb ratings are, in order of ascending difficulty, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, 5.4, 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10, 5.11, 5.12a, 12b,12c,12d,13a,etc. Currently, the toughest known routes are in the 15s, but this is an inherently subjective grade.

Sharma -- a 30 year-old climber.

Send -- Complete a route (with extra qualifiers to make it more difficult)

Rhapsody -- a very difficult route in Scotland, established by Dave MacLeod.

Onsight -- Showing up at a climb without any idea how to climb it (e.g. watching others climb or getting a "beta" (Beta -- a plan of how to climb a particular route) )

In short: This is an impressive climb, yes, and we shouldn't take anything away from Dave MacLeod; however, Chris Sharma was tackling much harder routes five years before this route was established, and people are able to climb harder routes with no preparation.
 
2012-07-17 09:25:46 AM  
orbister


Z-clipped:
The hardest TRAD route in the world. 5.14a-ish. Not that climbing 5.14 on trad gear isn't very impressive, and to be sure, Dave McLeod is a beast, but let's get real- Sharma was sending climbs four grades harder 5 years before Rhapsody went, and several people had already onsighted harder climbs.
/Wants to send Action Directe

Translation?


Orbister, I speak "climber". He says that the route described is the hardest traditionally protected route in the world, not the hardest "climb" in the world. Dave McLeod is a very strong climber. Chris Sharma an American sport climber is completing routes of a difficulty of 5.15a, which is technically far more difficult. Climbers have completed routes even harder than the climb in the article on there first attempt without any prior information or practicing the moves on top rope.
He aspires to climb a very difficult bolt protected sport climb.

/Golly
//I personally prefer traditional climbing as it leave no trace of your passing and respects the environment, sport, and future visitors. I also like that it tends to be bold climbing versus safer and more gymnastic sport climbing.
 
2012-07-17 09:31:52 AM  
Crivens!
 
2012-07-17 09:39:33 AM  

Rufus Lee King: Cormee: Rufus Lee King: [forbiddenplanet.co.uk image 420x306]

That's Oor Wullie, I used to get that annual as a child, it alternated between that and The Bruins every two years. I'd completely forgotten, cheers!

[2.bp.blogspot.com image 850x368]


Broons.

They were in the Sunday Post, a weekly newspaper.
 
2012-07-17 09:43:14 AM  

orbister: Z-clipped:
The hardest TRAD route in the world. 5.14a-ish. Not that climbing 5.14 on trad gear isn't very impressive, and to be sure, Dave McLeod is a beast, but let's get real- Sharma was sending climbs four grades harder 5 years before Rhapsody went, and several people had already onsighted harder climbs.

Translation?


He'll fight, but only if we get him a camper for his mom.
 
2012-07-17 09:57:02 AM  

PFC Obvious: orbister: Z-clipped:
The hardest TRAD route in the world. 5.14a-ish. Not that climbing 5.14 on trad gear isn't very impressive, and to be sure, Dave McLeod is a beast, but let's get real- Sharma was sending climbs four grades harder 5 years before Rhapsody went, and several people had already onsighted harder climbs.

Translation?

Trad climbing -- climbing by placing anchors as you go up, and removing them when you get past them. As opposed to free climbing (climbing with no equipment other than a safety rope), sport (preset anchors that stay fixed in the rock), and free solo (climbing with no protection whatsoever)

5.14a -- a grade of climbing. The 5 prefix means it's a climb, and will often be omitted on harder routes. A fit beginner can more or less handle a 5.6 without too much problem. At 5.12, people started adding letters. Thus, climb ratings are, in order of ascending difficulty, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, 5.4, 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10, 5.11, 5.12a, 12b,12c,12d,13a,etc. Currently, the toughest known routes are in the 15s, but this is an inherently subjective grade.

Sharma -- a 30 year-old climber.

Send -- Complete a route (with extra qualifiers to make it more difficult)

Rhapsody -- a very difficult route in Scotland, established by Dave MacLeod.

Onsight -- Showing up at a climb without any idea how to climb it (e.g. watching others climb or getting a "beta" (Beta -- a plan of how to climb a particular route) )

In short: This is an impressive climb, yes, and we shouldn't take anything away from Dave MacLeod; however, Chris Sharma was tackling much harder routes five years before this route was established, and people are able to climb harder routes with no preparation.


That's super good information, but climbing grades begin to have letters in them at 5.10's. It is the Yosemite Decimal System used in America. Link.

If you are doing bouldering, which most of these Scottish routes are, you would have a different and more complicated rating system. Link.
 
2012-07-17 10:17:28 AM  
That`s it, I`m fed up with people claiming this and that are the hardest things to climb. I`m off to make a 500ft high polished marble wall with a smooth polished overhang and market it as a climbing face.

Climb that frkkers, that`s what i will call it, frkkers...
 
2012-07-17 10:18:25 AM  
ah, has fark updated it`s filter to get rid of fuk?
 
2012-07-17 10:19:00 AM  

Rufus Lee King: Sybarite: Crivens!

Damn hard to find, these are...

[digital.nls.uk image 375x488]


There's an online slice-o'-Scottish-life strip called "The Giddy Limit"... if anyone has that sort of jonesing to satisfy. It's set in Orkney. This week's offering made me chuckle:

www.giddy-limit.com

Main Page (pops)
 
2012-07-17 10:19:42 AM  
plainly not yet fuk followed by kers is filtered... strange.
 
2012-07-17 10:42:43 AM  
Came for the white knights defending graffiti as "art" and the perpetrators as artists.

/leaving disappointed but still amused
 
2012-07-17 11:04:13 AM  

Flakeloaf: Is this for the benefit of mysophobic idiots or just the ones who can't pump gas without pouring it all over themselves? Because either way it's a really stupid "reason" to generate yet more waste.


So you've never checked your tyre pressure at a petrol (gas) station?

Did mine this week - hands got coated in filth removing the valve/dust caps from the wheels and they had run out of gloves.
 
2012-07-17 11:08:10 AM  

Z-clipped: RichieLaw: That's super good information, but climbing grades begin to have letters in them at 5.10's. It is the Yosemite Decimal System used in America.

Yeah, also Sharma has climbed 5.15b and trad is a form of free climbing, but I wasn't going to go all detail-nazi on people who were just trying to help.

dready zim: Climb that frkkers, that`s what i will call it, frkkers...

FYI I was responding to the guy who replied to you who mentioned that the rating system didn't start to bifurcate until 5.12.

 
2012-07-17 11:17:39 AM  
Sharma also rarely places his own gear and doesn't take 75 foot whippers onto brass stoppers either. As far as I know he's done Separate Reality and Moonlight Buttress. Not exactly hard trad climbs.

To say that Sharma is doing something harder, is highly debatable. Sharma doesn't free solo, MacLeod has soloed 8c. Sharma doesn't plug gear. I think MacLeod called Long Hope Direct 5.14+. Sharma also doesn't climb V14 high balls. He climbs exceedingly physically difficult, but well protected sport routes.

Sport climbing and trad climbing are indeed climbing. But to discount a trad climber because the grade of the route isn't as "hard" is silly. It takes huge balls and serious mental skills to do hard climbing above shiatty gear. It does not take big balls and a mind of steel to climb 6 feet between bolts. Physical difficulty is one thing. But difficult climbing above questionable gear is something else entirely.

MacLeod has pairty between his sport climbing, trad, and free solo ability. The vast majority of climbers cannot claim such proficiency. Especially Chris Sharma.

Z-clipped: PainInTheASP: Steve McClure trying Rhapsody on Dumbarton, the hardest route (in the world?).

Dave MacLeod, the first guy ever to successfully climb it. Trying...and failing. (NSFW language)

The hardest TRAD route in the world. 5.14a-ish. Not that climbing 5.14 on trad gear isn't very impressive, and to be sure, Dave McLeod is a beast, but let's get real- Sharma was sending climbs four grades harder 5 years before Rhapsody went, and several people had already onsighted harder climbs.

Also, leave the graffiti where it is. You wouldn't blast the top off of K2 just because somone painted their initials on it.

/Wants to send Action Directe

 
2012-07-17 11:27:46 AM  

CheekyMonkey

orbister: Z-clipped:
The hardest TRAD route in the world. 5.14a-ish. Not that climbing 5.14 on trad gear isn't very impressive, and to be sure, Dave McLeod is a beast, but let's get real- Sharma was sending climbs four grades harder 5 years before Rhapsody went, and several people had already onsighted harder climbs.

Translation?

He'll fight, but only if we get him a camper for his mom.


periwinkle blue.
 
2012-07-17 01:28:44 PM  

Pert: Flakeloaf: Is this for the benefit of mysophobic idiots or just the ones who can't pump gas without pouring it all over themselves? Because either way it's a really stupid "reason" to generate yet more waste.

So you've never checked your tyre pressure at a petrol (gas) station?

Did mine this week - hands got coated in filth removing the valve/dust caps from the wheels and they had run out of gloves.


Sure have. I've been lucky, but tires are filthy and I can definitely see how one would want to clean them off before touching them. There's usuall a napkin in the car for that.

As for the pump handles being "coated" in fuel, that must be some strange kind of pump I've never used before. The ones here have the gas come out of a metal tube in the front of the device some distance from the handle behind it. The only way to get fuel on the handle would be to hold it straight up or to get into some kind of freak gasoline fight.
 
2012-07-17 01:35:04 PM  
Z-clipped

Well said. The really cool thing with modern climbers and climbing is how most of the strongest climbers are multiple discipline and use sport climbing to push their alpine climbing, or bolted mixed routes to become super strong at dry-tooling...etc. The kids these days, unlike folks of yesteryear calling each other names, have started to evolve it into just climbing and in doing so seem to exhibit more respect to the very ethics that make climbing cool.

I prefer plugging gear and running out easy to moderate terrain, but I also rather enjoy clipping bolts. Both have paid dividends to the other discipline.
I really prefer ice.....which so nicely combines the useless with the uncomfortable....
 
2012-07-17 01:52:57 PM  

Flakeloaf: Pert: Flakeloaf: Is this for the benefit of mysophobic idiots or just the ones who can't pump gas without pouring it all over themselves? Because either way it's a really stupid "reason" to generate yet more waste.

So you've never checked your tyre pressure at a petrol (gas) station?

Did mine this week - hands got coated in filth removing the valve/dust caps from the wheels and they had run out of gloves.

Sure have. I've been lucky, but tires are filthy and I can definitely see how one would want to clean them off before touching them. There's usuall a napkin in the car for that.

As for the pump handles being "coated" in fuel, that must be some strange kind of pump I've never used before. The ones here have the gas come out of a metal tube in the front of the device some distance from the handle behind it. The only way to get fuel on the handle would be to hold it straight up or to get into some kind of freak gasoline fight.


It's because diesel can cause a skin reaction. Under the health and Safety at Work act, commercial undertakings have a "section 3" duty to take all "reasonably practicable" steps to protect those who may be impacted by their activity - providing gloves for handling a substance that is known to cause a reaction would fall under that rule.
 
2012-07-17 02:16:21 PM  

Spiralmonkey:
It's because diesel can cause a skin reaction. Under the health and Safety at Work act, commercial undertakings have a "section 3" duty to take all "reasonably practicable" steps to protect those who may be impacted by their activity - providing gloves for handling a substance that is known to cause a reaction would fall under that rule.


And that'd be reasonable if the customers were scooping fuel out of a bucket with their hands and stuffing it into the side of the vehicle. It comes out of the end of the metal tube on the left:

www.awdirect.com

and the user's hand is on the green handle on the right. Since there's no reason to point the nozzle straight up until you're done fuelling and are ready to put it away I still fail to see how some clod can manage to spill it on his own hands.
 
2012-07-17 10:54:27 PM  

PainInTheASP: Steve McClure trying Rhapsody on Dumbarton, the hardest route (in the world?).

Dave MacLeod, the first guy ever to successfully climb it. Trying...and failing. (NSFW language)


How about no?

Harder than the link you posted, for sure

No slouch either
 
2012-07-18 10:40:23 AM  

Z-clipped: New Age Redneck: I prefer plugging gear and running out easy to moderate terrain, but I also rather enjoy clipping bolts. Both have paid dividends to the other discipline.

Yeah, I on the other hand cannot get my head around falling on gear. I once about 10 years ago sewed up one spot on an overhanging crack at the Gunks with no less than 6 pieces because I was so freaked out about pulling the roof blind, and I think it was on a 5.5. Earlier that summer, I had sent Narcissus at the New on my second attempt, so I decided that day that trad wasn't for me.

New Age Redneck: I really prefer ice am certifiably insane

FTFY. Here's some awesome anecdotal evidence for you: Every single ice climber I know who is over the age of 50 has a story about seeing someone die during a climb. Every single one.

"Yeah, this whole section of the wall on the third pitch just broke off, and they were gone..."

"A bunch of snow just started pouring over the top, and when it stopped, the route next to me was just...empty...all of a sudden..."

Yeah, no thanks.


I worked in a climbing gym for funsies for about a year. I've never climbed outside but I've heard unbelievable stories from the old-timers that would come and climb during the Chicago winter. Absolutely insane what climbers used to do back in the day in order to get a little thin air.
 
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