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(Telegraph)   France is facing the greatest crisis it's ever seen: fresh-baked, hand-rolled croissants are being replaced by frozen, industrial-pressed croissants   (telegraph.co.uk) divider line 117
    More: Silly, purists, pantry  
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4490 clicks; posted to Main » on 01 Jul 2012 at 4:15 AM   |  Favorite    |   share:  Share on Twitter share via Email Share on Facebook   more»



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2012-07-01 01:16:53 PM
Factory made croissants?

In France?

Get me some rope ...
 
2012-07-01 01:17:13 PM
dannyhavok: Mr. Right: dannyhavok:

My goal is to work in Canada for another three years, and then go to France or Germany to re-apprentice under an old master.

Go now. Sounds like you have a passion for it and waiting 3 years could make an old master in France or Germany believe you have ingrained too many bad habits. They like to develop their apprentices from scratch just like their pastries.

I would like to, but I have to wait until my girlfriend is finished University and my car is paid off! From what I've heard, talking to European expats in the industry, there is a bit of a shortage of bakers, so I should be able to find work. The youth of today aren't interested in the early mornings and constant abuse that comes with learning a trade.


Oh, well, you have another reason besides just 3 years for experience. Good on you!. I wish you all the best. It is not just in baking that we have lost the skills of too many old heads. I applaud your willingness to pursue the rigors of that world.

I have a small farm on which I raise heritage breed livestock, primarily for local foodies and small restaurants. There is a fellow who is USDA licensed and inspected to process my pigs. It isn't easy to find a place that is both inspected so that I can sell the pork to customers and is small enough to be willing to do a couple of hogs at a time to specification; especially when those hogs don't look like the commercially raised industrial mutant pigs. He and I were talking about how I'd like to learn to be a skilled butcher and how that is another lost art. He allowed as how, when he was young, the local butcher was held in high esteem, rather like a tool and die maker or a skilled machinist. He may not be a bank president but he was a skilled craftsman. He allowed as how there are a few up and comers who are learning and maintaining the old skills but that there is an ever decreasing number and they are respected only by the foodies. The masses are just buying their boneless pork loin at Costco or Sam's Club and they don't know the difference in various cuts of pork - a difference rendered almost meaningless by the hyper-controlled, industrial environment in which pork is produced. While he loves the skill of butchery and he is encouraged by the rise of the foodie and slow food movement, he believes that such skill sets will never return to prominence when IBP or Cargill has any number of plants around that process 20,000 hogs a day and every employee has their 1 cut that they make on that carcass.

It's not too dissimilar to someone such as yourself who knows how to create bread or the guy down at the Wonder Bread plant who knows how to run the machine.
 
2012-07-01 01:50:43 PM
what about gluten-free croissants? Mon Dieu
 
2012-07-01 02:05:41 PM
I feel their pain. There is nothing like the real thing, baby!

Having had pastries and bread in pre-industrialization France and Switzerland, and comparing these delights to the ersatz, spongy, soggy crap that passes for "baked good"s in the English-speaking countries, I think this would merit full scale national riots, not just a few burned out Citroëns in Paris.

True French bread has the following ingredients: flour, salt, water, yeast. It turns into concrete a few hours after baking, but while it is fresh, it is real bread, with a crust and a mie* so tasty you can eat it without butter but you should add a quarter of pound of butter any way.

*Mie is the French word for the soft part of the bread. The fact that the French have a word for this and the English don't just goes to show you what is wrong with industrialized bread--it is all soft part. It has no creal crust or mie.

God save France (and Europe's bread) from Anglo-American industrialization. In Europe you have an aisle of fresh bread and a corner somewhere with potato chips and other junk food. In North America (and the UK) you have an aisle of junk food and maybe some real bread hidden away in a corner of the store somewhere, going stale because nobody knows or cares that it is there.

My father insisted on having home-baked bread. Sometimes they use one of those bread-makers now, but real bread is always an option in Mother Goose's house. Her home bread is almost identical to the traditional bread made in the Valais region of Switzerland--a good solid bread that is spongy but makes good crumbs, with a real golden-brown crust on it--perfect for toast or sandwiches.

I don't eat as much bread as I should but the lumpy, yeasty, wet stuff that passes for a baguette at the local supermarket is nowhere near as good as the crusty stuff that you get at the local bakeries, and even that isn't quite as good as the real baguettes of France, or the ryes and pumpernickels of Germany and Switzerland.

If you want to eat right, you have to be prepared to fight yourself, laziness, stupidity and corporations. Only competent well-remunerated craftsmen and artisans make the real thing. Everything else is ersatz and poison for the body and soul.

The French may fail in many ways, but this is one thing they have always gotten right. They've used the power of government for good, not for evil, when it comes to the purity, safety, and quality of food.
 
2012-07-01 02:14:55 PM
YouPeopleAreCrazy: WTF are you on about? You're not seriously comparing poverty and malnutrition in India vs western countries, are you? Seriously?

Dude, when was the last time you saw an American school lunch? Here in Las Vegas, a Lunchable looks like a RenFaire feast next to what I've seen.
 
2012-07-01 02:49:09 PM
brantgoose: [lots of French stuff]

Hey, take your Frenchy Frenchness back to Frenchland and Frenchout all you want, you Frenchy Frechman.

/would kill for a traditional croissant right now
 
2012-07-01 03:27:43 PM
PC LOAD LETTER: brantgoose: [lots of French stuff]

Hey, take your Frenchy Frenchness back to Frenchland and Frenchout all you want, you Frenchy Frechman.

/would kill for a traditional croissant right now


I bet you also like long pit hair....

/Thought it was funny
//The four years I lived in the vicinity? I didn't mind.
 
2012-07-01 03:27:43 PM
Z-clipped: I lived in France for quite a few years, in the south. There is nothing in the world, I mean nothing, like a perfect croissant. The best croissant I've ever had was made by a Parisian baker who now owns a patisserie in Narberth, PA. Words cannot describe the experience.

The article is correct that the bakers who really know how it's done are dying out. The previous generation slaved for years (or decades) under master pastry chefs to learn their recipes and techniques. That kind of work ethic has died out enough that a lot of those guys are taking their secrets to the grave with them, rather than hand them over to someone they don't think is worthy.


Ahhh, Le Petite Mitron in Narberth. I try to go there only once a week to pick up a croissant or sweet pastry for breakfast, otherwise I could easily gain a lot of weight by eating all those treats. Our nickname for the place is "en Vacance" since the owner closes it up for weeks at a time in August and January to take his traditional French vacation.

My dad was a baker by training and trade. Apprenticed as a teenager in Germany, came to the US and eventually retired as head of QA for Wegmans' bakeries. When I worked in the Wegmans main bakery, only bakers that had been apprenticed were allowed to make and touch the bread and pastry dough. The rest of us were essentially line workers who ran the packaging machines or loaded the dough into boxes for shipping out to the stores. If you ever get a chance to try the seasonal stollen at Wegmans - that is my dad's recipe. They start making it in October and soak the baked pastry, which is full of butter, golden raisins and fresh almond paste, in rum for six weeks before they dust it with sugar and ship them out to the stores. I think it is pretty amazing.
 
2012-07-01 03:34:33 PM
assjuice: I must have never had a good croissant because I remember them as being pretty bland and tasting like what ever was put on them.

I would say that yes, you've never had a good croissant. They don't have a strong flavor but they can be very delicious.

One of my favorites in France is: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pain_au_chocolat
 
2012-07-01 04:39:16 PM
brantgoose: *Mie is the French word for the soft part of the bread. The fact that the French have a word for this and the English don't just goes to show you what is wrong with industrialized bread--it is all soft part. It has no creal crust or mie.

It isn't crumb?

Plenty of non-industrialised bread here in the Northeast US, anyhow. For those in VT, I recommend Red Hen as the best bread I've had anywhere (and, yes, I've been to France); here in Boston I prefer Iggy's, Fornax, or Nashoba Brook.
 
2012-07-01 07:26:06 PM
RickN99: Kibbler: Only an American would think it's silly to protest and lament the transition of a nation's signature food from traditional, hand-baked methods to industrial, squirt-splat-glop methods.

May contain disodium methy dioxylate pentachromium salicylic acid. DO NOT CONSUME.

Now available at your local McCroissant drivethrough 24 hours a day!!!11 Order two and get a McSodium Freeze free!

Sure. 100% of the world's non-American population supports the protest. I imagine most of the world's starving population falls into the "doesn't give a fark about French tradition; gimme cheap food" category.


Oh I see. The moral argument. So...the world's poor needs American industrial food? I saw something recently about how there's an epidemic of rotting teeth in the kids in South America. Can you guess what kind of cheap nutrition showed up there about ten years ago?

Yes? No?

Squirt-splat-glob will set you free. In the sense that it will release you from the travails of life.
 
2012-07-01 07:54:44 PM
Alright France the ball is in your court, are you gonna welcome your new overlords or are you gonna go all resistance on their asses?
 
2012-07-02 12:31:40 AM
Coming on a Bicycle: Haters gonna hate, but once upon a time I found myself, one sunny July morning, sitting with my woman out on the terrace of a boulangerie somewhere on the corner of Rue St Antoine and where Place des Vosges begins and I ordered myself a soupbowl full of chocolate milk and a croissant, and just as I was about to bite that motherfarker I heard a giant sonic boom and three jets with red, white and blue in their exhausts soared over. I'd forgotten that it was the 14th. But anyway, that croissant was something special.

Could that place have been Ma Bourgogne? It's the only café I remember on the square.

/lived in the 4th
 
2012-07-02 06:31:41 AM
brantgoose: God save France (and Europe's bread) from Anglo-American industrialization.

Jesus, is there anything that slavish Europhiles won't blame on America? America has absolutely zero to do with the fact that European industrial bakers, most proiminently French and German, have figured out a way to make industrially produced lookalikes (but not tastealikes) of their own national foodstuffs. In case you're a bit thick let me say that again: European companies are diluting the quality of European food and European customers are going for it.

It has zilch to do with the U.S. so leave us out of it.

 
2012-07-02 06:39:06 AM
brantgoose: In Europe you have an aisle of fresh bread and a corner somewhere with potato chips and other junk food. In North America (and the UK) you have an aisle of junk food and maybe some real bread hidden away in a corner of the store somewhere, going stale because nobody knows or cares that it is there.

I guess I should have added that only someone who's gone total Eurotard would post such nonsense with a straight face. Every grocery store in Europe has the big aisle loaded with chips and junk food. Anyone who's lived in Europe knows this.

 
2012-07-02 06:59:02 AM
To be fair, this is France we're talking about. They take their croissants as seriously as Americans do bacon. So imagine this was your bacon or something. Doesn't seem so silly now, does it?
 
2012-07-02 11:26:30 AM
Here in NJ, I just made Croissants from scratch yesterday, in 95 degree heat.... Suck it French.

/Not my proudest post, but anyway I can put down the French...
 
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