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13103 clicks; posted to Geek » on 06 Feb 2007 at 5:32 PM (7 years ago)   |  Favorite   |  Watch    |   share:  Share on Twitter share via Email Share on Facebook   more»



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  2010-06-21 02:32:53 PM
Barakku: I can't seem to find any specific info on using a direct bluetooth connection in windows 7,

Well there is the old tried and true share your C drive. WARNING!!! DO NOT DO THIS ON ANY COMPUTER THAT IS CONNECTED TO THE INTERNET!!! Try sharing your C drive on the one you are using for a network drive. That and the bluetooth connection might do the trick. You may have to go into the control panel and do an add user thing as well. Or possibly allow remote connections since the bluetooth is technically a remote connection.
 
  2010-06-23 07:27:05 AM
Does anyone know much about laptop hard drives?

My C drive is running at around 47C, which seems to me to be very high. I shut it down yesterday when it hit 51 to let it cool down. A SMART program I have recommends I get more cooling to it, which would be nice, but you know, laptop. The D drive hovers around 40.
Is that a sign that the hard drive is going? Would replacing it help?
 
  2010-06-23 12:08:33 PM
I haven't seen hard drives get hot when they're dying, rather they may die when they get hot -- but usually other things kill the drive first. 47C isn't great but isn't fatal.

Look into an active cooling lap mat for your laptop maybe? Maybe hit the fans that are already in it with compressed air?
 
  2010-06-23 03:24:09 PM
paleryder69: Try sharing your C drive on the one you are using for a network drive. That and the bluetooth connection might do the trick. You may have to go into the control panel and do an add user thing as well. Or possibly allow remote connections since the bluetooth is technically a remote connection.

I hadn't even thought of that...maybe it will work like that. I just assumed there would be some visible option in the bluetooth device menu to access it.

RabidDog:
Is that a sign that the hard drive is going? Would replacing it help?


May just be poor cooling in your laptop. They have those cooling pads you can set your laptop on...only other thing I can think of is attempting to minimize the time your HDD stays spinning. In power management settings you could set the HDD to stop spinning sooner, but that will only help when there's no disc activity. Also make sure your fan is set to maximum cooling (or 'balanced' or 'performance' if there isn't one) as the fan speed is often lowered on laptops to reduce noise and power usage.
 
  2010-06-24 07:50:21 AM
Mike: Look into an active cooling lap mat for your laptop maybe? Maybe hit the fans that are already in it with compressed air?

I have one, and fell for the 'metal case to aid cooling' nonsense. My laptop has rubber feet, how does that help?

Barakku: Also make sure your fan is set to maximum cooling (or 'balanced' or 'performance' if there isn't one) as the fan speed is often lowered on laptops to reduce noise and power usage.

I have it set to 'passive'. Damn thing is on its arse. Even reduced the max CPU speed. That's akin to heresy where I'm from.
 
  2010-06-24 11:22:24 PM
I hate when it reduces max CPU speed (but it should help), the 'adaptive mode' never kicks into full gear as needed. Power options always seem kinda wonky, at least the manufacturer provided ones.
This just reminds me how much I love my SSD...so much faster, runs so much cooler and quieter, I just hate mechanical parts. Mechanical parts are why we can't have nice things...
 
  2010-06-25 01:38:13 AM
50C is pretty much normal for drives in laptops.
 
  2010-06-29 06:54:39 PM
You know how you're always joking about spilling beer on the servers?

i.imgur.com
 
ZAZ [TotalFark]
  2010-06-29 07:15:21 PM
I bought an Iomega 2 TB drive for a Mac Mini. It never works for more than a few minutes at a time. I fiddled with power save settings to no effect. It acts like it powers down after a few minutes. The computer knows it's there because when I unplug it I get the message telling me not to do that. Is this likely anything I can fix? If not, what's a reliable big external drive by a different manufacturer? And what's a fun way to destroy it to protect data security in case a dumpster diver can make it work where I can't?
 
  2010-06-29 07:53:21 PM
Destroying disks: Google "DBAN", download the ISO, and burn it to a CD

First though, try going to the Mac's System Preferences, then Energy Saver, and uncheck "put hard disks to sleep when possible"
 
  2010-06-29 07:55:36 PM
and make sure your mini is entirely up-to-date, and check the for firmware updates for the drive
 
  2010-06-29 07:56:28 PM
fun way to destroy hard drive:

remove cover
attach power
sprinkle salt on bare platter
 
ZAZ [TotalFark]
  2010-06-29 09:00:15 PM
Mike -- that setting is the one I meant by "power save". I'm used to the name "power management" from Solaris.

No_47 -- Iomega doesn't have any firmware updates I can find. It's supposed to just work. Right now I'm installing the OS update I had put off until I backed up to the external drive. If I have a boostrap problem and can't back up until I upgrade then I guess I have to upgrade.
 
  2010-06-29 11:50:43 PM
Is the drive still there in the menu and does it open at all? If it shows as there at the very start, have you tried moving some large files to see if it keeps working? It sounds like maybe it's going to sleep mode, but that shouldn't interfere with normal operation...\
And USB drives usually shouldn't require any firmware or driver beyond standard flash USB
 
  2010-06-30 12:37:03 AM
Iomega doesn't make hard drives, so if you open the case up (or open OSX's Disk Utility), you'll probably find a Seagate, Western Digital, Samsung, etc drive in there. You're wasting your time looking for firmware at Iomega. Same applies to external drives "made" by any company that doesn't actually make their own disks -- all you're getting is someone else's drive and a generic enclosure, and maybe a CD of backup software for Windows :)

If it's a Western Digital 'Green' model drive in there, there are known issues with their power saving modes, and there's an MS-DOS-based tool to fix it.

Seagate 7200.11's had firmware issues too but those didn't come in 2 TB sizes.

Other than that, I don't know of any recent drives with major firmware issues anyway.

It's possible the enclosure's power supply sucks or the drive itself was DOA.
 
  2010-06-30 12:58:36 AM
Heh I still remember the infamous IOmega click of death. Stopped buying stuff from them ever.

Did buy the WD 1tb external on sale at frys. Its still working *knock wood*
 
ZAZ [TotalFark]
  2010-06-30 07:36:22 AM
Upgrading MacOS didn't help, or not much. The drive lasted a half hour this morning instead of under ten minutes. (Maybe because I kept it busy?) Disk Utility doesn't show any useful info, only "Iomega HDD". I'll try a different brand and maybe unleash the Salt Shaker of Doom.
 
ZAZ [TotalFark]
  2010-06-30 07:57:57 AM
I don't have Windows here to run a drive fixing tool. So for replacement advice, if I need something not with a WD "Green" drive then it sounds like I need to look for something that is made by a drive manfacturer and not WD branded. So any Seagate 2 TB ought to be OK, I guess. (Either because it's not "Green" or because my drive just happened to be bad and any randomly chosen new drive will probably work.)
 
  2010-06-30 10:34:50 AM
ZAZ: I bought an Iomega 2 TB drive for a Mac Mini.

Well there's your problem. Iomega is utter crap and pretty much always has been.
 
  2010-06-30 10:45:40 AM
ZAZ: So any Seagate 2 TB ought to be OK, I guess.

That should work fine, just throw away the Iomega external enclosure. Never buy ANYTHING from them, they only produce shiat.

If there were such a thing as an Iomega branded Natalie Portman clone, It still would be crappy.
 
ZAZ [TotalFark]
  2010-06-30 10:59:19 AM
Maddogjew

I haven't bought consumer disk drives in many years. I didn't know Iomega sucked these days.
 
  2010-06-30 09:11:45 PM
I as wondering, in Steam, when you use the 'delete local content' option, does it delete saves and stuff too, or just the full game? I've added nearly 80 gb of games thanks to their sale, so I'll probably be deleting and installing games as needed.

/Didn't think I'd be installing this many games on my poor SSD, but oh well
 
ZAZ [TotalFark]
  2010-07-01 09:06:06 PM
I tried a different drive and it still acted funny. I think the problem is with firewire. A USB connection is staying up. When I connect the new drive with firewire it clicks a lot but doesn't do anything.
 
  2010-07-02 02:46:45 AM
Are you powering the enclosure off Firewire or off a separate power adapter?
 
ZAZ [TotalFark]
  2010-07-02 07:11:06 AM
I'm using the drive's separate power adapter.
 
  2010-07-04 03:37:07 PM
I'm still having file permission problems, I guess the problem was Windows 7, not steam. Every once in a while if I try to delete or download a file, I'm told I can't edit the file/folder because I don't have permission, apparently the SYSTEM user is (randomly) being given exclusive control for some reason. Resetting works but it's a persistent problem, is there some way to either stop this from happening or override the behavior to allow me to delete any file regardless? I'm the only non-system user on the machine, I should have complete access...
 
  2010-07-04 08:26:05 PM
Barakku: I should have complete access

aint necessarily so McGee, a lot of the behavior of 7 is by DESIGN. Certain files and folders are given read only access that the system can ignore. I suggest you wade through the windows help center at microsoft for a better answer to your issue. You may have to change the attributes of the folder using attrib or other unnecessary thing they put in for security reasons. I forsee about oohhh 4-5 hours of frustration in their techcenter trying to dig out the right answer.
 
  2010-07-06 10:35:25 PM
If you didn't disable UAC, you may have needed to explicitly run the Steam installer with Admin privileges.

I got bit in the ass by installing something that wasn't UAC compatible and it did all kinds of strange things to file permissions.
 
  2010-07-07 11:21:55 PM
Is Firefox 3.6.x on Windows as crashy for anyone else as it is for me?
 
  2010-07-08 09:48:26 AM
FuturePastNow: Is Firefox 3.6.x on Windows as crashy for anyone else as it is for me?

3.6.6 has been good to me so far.
 
  2010-07-08 10:40:49 AM
So one month later, the motherboard I've been waiting on finally ships. Next week is upgrade time...
 
  2010-07-09 05:23:18 AM
I had all sorts of trouble with the Firefox 4 beta and Firefox 3.6 installed at the same time.
 
  2010-07-11 11:45:36 PM
paleryder69: Barakku: I should have complete access

aint necessarily so McGee, a lot of the behavior of 7 is by DESIGN. Certain files and folders are given read only access that the system can ignore. I suggest you wade through the windows help center at microsoft for a better answer to your issue. You may have to change the attributes of the folder using attrib or other unnecessary thing they put in for security reasons. I forsee about oohhh 4-5 hours of frustration in their techcenter trying to dig out the right answer.


Thing is I'm not trying to alter system files, it's just completely random things like folders in my music folder, and on occasion FF will say it was denied access to save a file in my downloads folder...it's also currently causing errors for my backup (which is odd, because that should be the SYSTEM user doing the read/writes, and backs up actual critical system files all the time). Changing the attributes doesn't work either...in the 'permissions' properties page, it actually says I'm not allowed to know the owner of the file/folder (I didn't know you could even restrict that), let alone take control of it.

I'm thinking maybe the computer is thinking the file/folder is "in use" for too long after it's been opened, and refuses to write to it? It does usually seem to be the case that I open a folder, then go back up a level and try to delete it when I get the error. Never seen anything quite like this though.
 
  2010-07-12 09:22:23 AM
Barakku: It does usually seem to be the case that I open a folder, then go back up a level and try to delete it when I get the error


// Try Unlocker
 
  2010-07-12 09:25:53 AM
Also, if using unlocker, remove ebay shortcuts applet from program files. watch instal options so you don't get a free tool bar, etc.
 
  2010-07-12 09:44:24 PM
Is there a way to show Blu-Ray DVDs on the display of my iMac, an Intel 24-inch purchased in January 2007? It features a "DisplayPort" - maybe not a "mini" one, as this one featuring two columns of 10 or so pins. The Blu-Ray would have HDMI output. Audio won't be a problem. Would anything here be all the hardware I'd need?
 
  2010-07-12 10:05:02 PM
Will the DP2HDMIMM6 work?
 
  2010-07-12 10:14:16 PM
Never mind, it's some kind of DVI port.
 
  2010-07-12 10:26:03 PM
N. S. Radieaux: Is there a way to show Blu-Ray DVDs on the display of my iMac, an Intel 24-inch purchased in January 2007? It features a "DisplayPort" - maybe not a "mini" one, as this one featuring two columns of 10 or so pins. The Blu-Ray would have HDMI output. Audio won't be a problem. Would anything here be all the hardware I'd need?

You're not going to be able to play Blu-rays on the screen of your iMac. It has no video-in. The DisplayPort is only an output. The current 27" model is the first and only iMac with a video input.
 
  2010-07-13 04:04:06 PM
2007 vintage Macs would have Mini-DVI or full-blown DVI instead of DisplayPort. Apparently DisplayPort can act as an input. Mini-DVI, not so much.
 
  2010-07-14 12:14:49 AM
www.bit0.comwww.bit0.com
www.bit0.comwww.bit0.com

New Fark database server build/test in progress...
 
  2010-07-14 12:54:59 AM
Does anyone have any good recommendations for a sub $275 SSD? Trim capable and high read/write performance is a must.

I'm either gonna get that or a 5850 to replace my 260. I haven't quite made up my mind yet on which would give me the best bang for the buck. I game @ 1920x1200 and the 260 seems to handle anything I throw at it so far but it is getting long in the tooth I suppose.

Phenom II 940 @ 3.6 w/8 gigs of 1066 ddr2, and a geforce 260 is what I'm running atm.
 
  2010-07-14 12:59:40 AM
Depends on how much space you need and how IO intensive the games are... and what your current disk setup is... You could split the difference and go with a WD Velociraptor or something...
 
  2010-07-14 01:21:07 AM
Computer building/components advice time.

Budget: $600, maybe up to $1,000 if I can talk nicely to my wife (we're trying to have a kid and purchase our second home - she sees this as just another one of my toys and won't let me spend a lot.)

Here's what need and my recommended purchases based on limited research thus far:

Mobo: ASUS M4A88TD-V
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Deneb 3.2 GHz
Power: Cooler Master Silent Pro M600 Series Modular 600W
Video: MSI nVidia GeForce GTS 250 Twin Frozr
RAM: Corsair XMS3 4 GB

I already own a legit copy of Windows 7, a case, HD (several) and various CD/DVD ROMs. Oh and the one other qualification - and this is a big one - this machine has to be silent. Not silent under performance, obviously, but when idle it has to be completely quiet so overclocking with all kinds of fans is right out. My wife telecommutes and we share an office, so the machine can't be audible at all during the day.

I understand that I can get considerably more performance by approaching the top end of my budget, but I'm afraid $600 is all she's going to let me swing this month.
 
  2010-07-14 02:36:01 AM
I've been using an Intel SSD- the 80GB G2 one. It's nice but I can't honestly say it was worth the money. In fact, I'm sure it wasn't.
 
  2010-07-14 02:55:54 AM
Mike: Depends on how much space you need and how IO intensive the games are... and what your current disk setup is... You could split the difference and go with a WD Velociraptor or something...

I gotta a few of the 1 TBs now. I'm good on storage. I''m just thinking of using it as an OS drive with maybe a game or two on it.

/2.3 TB free on the NAS
 
  2010-07-14 01:37:44 PM
I tried changing my C drive's ownership to my Account instead of SYSTEM, thought it might help, haven't had the problem so far but we'll see.Maddogjew: Does anyone have any good recommendations for a sub $275 SSD? Trim capable and high read/write performance is a must.

Phenom II 940 @ 3.6 w/8 gigs of 1066 ddr2, and a geforce 260 is what I'm running atm.


High read/write is basically the definition =p but there are differences. I have one and I'm basically never limited by I/O speed, though my processor and graphics card make some things slow. I'd worry about price and quality over speed unless reviews indicate a particular drive is especially slow, the SSD should easily cut wait times to 1-2 seconds or less, install times are maybe a minute or two tops for a few gigs in my expirence.

Make sure you have Win 7, it allows Trim, I don't think older Win OSes do. I love my SSD but to be honest I got it for kind of free (replacement) and I haven't shopped around for prices. I know that (shudder) intel is supposed to be among the best or simply the best, and my Samsung has been very good.

/It's a $500 drive though, IIRC...I can't go back to an HDD though
 
  2010-07-14 01:51:17 PM
Mike
New Fark database server build/test in progress...

And the haxx0r pigs have already spotted it. Damn.
 
  2010-07-14 05:49:13 PM
I just need somewhere to let this out:

fark you, Apple! fark your crazy imac engineering and your farking torx screws. I win. You can't stop my magic screwdriver.
 
  2010-07-15 03:48:41 PM
On the subject of SSDs, I linked the Seagate Momentus XT a while ago. I don't think they're shipping retail yet, but they're going to be the best cheap alternative to an SSD you can get.
 
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